Overrunning Clutch Update

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Overrunning Clutch Update

Postby Steve Forrest » Wed Jun 19, 2013 7:56 am

I recently shared the trials and tribulations of the Woods overrunning clutch on my '51 Cub. I replaced a gasket and the broken compression spring and noted an awful lot of metal shavings inside. Anyway, the spring would not stay in place - kept slipping over the ratchets. Since I've never seen the inside of one of these things in good condition, my guess was the entire thing was just worn out. I bought a new one from my local Woods dealer ($417!) and it works great. Here's the problem now: I really, really, really want to take the new one apart to see what it looks like in there. Somebody talk me out of this!

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Re: Overrunning Clutch Update

Postby Mike in Louisiana » Wed Jun 19, 2013 8:16 am

You are only 75 miles from Boss Hog. I bet he has one you could look at. $417 is a lot of money, you could have gotten a good used one for a lot less. Be sure to check out our sponsors used parts and the wanted section of the forum.
I do abuse my mower all the time and after striped the gears twice i welded them together. Only problem is, if you want to back up you have to wait till the mower stops spinning
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Re: Overrunning Clutch Update

Postby Steve Forrest » Wed Jun 19, 2013 9:21 am

Yeah, I knew I was spending big bucks and I did look around a little bit for used. In the end, buying new was fast, easy and the grass was getting pretty high around here. Good idea about Boss Hog. There may be a CubFest in my future.
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Re: Overrunning Clutch Update

Postby Buzzard Wing » Thu Jun 20, 2013 7:57 am

I have 2 Woods 42's and a spare spindle assembly, NONE of them have an overrunning clutch. I do know the IH C-2 mower has a very simple setup with pins and springs, the Woods one looks pretty complex in comparison. Haven't mowed much with the 42's so cannot say how they run without it.
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Re: Overrunning Clutch Update

Postby challenger » Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:48 am

I have been inside the clutch. It is not particularly complicated. It is better described as a metal to metal cogged ratchet arrangement that engages only in one direction. On your clutch, the cogs on either or both the pulley side of the ratchet or the spindle side (moveable spring loaded side) may have gotten worn down so the mating cogs no longer engaged properly in the the forward direction under load. Once the ratchet starts slipping in the forward direction over the face of the cogs, they will lose their intended straight or square faced alignment. This could be caused by a broken or weak coil spring or crud in the mechanism preventing the spring from positively pushing or keeping the moveable side of the cogged clutch together with the other mating half when in the engaged forward direction under load.
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Re: Overrunning Clutch Update

Postby Buzzard Wing » Thu Jun 20, 2013 10:25 pm

The real early ones just had a sheave (pulley) on top of the cutter shaft, no overrunning clutch. It is a good option.

3 and 3a:
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/wood ... e%2009.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/wood ... e%2008.jpg

Overrunning clutch page:
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/wood ... e%2012.jpg
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Re: Overrunning Clutch Update

Postby Scrivet » Fri Jun 21, 2013 7:36 am

challenger wrote:I have been inside the clutch. It is not particularly complicated. It is better described as a metal to metal cogged ratchet arrangement that engages only in one direction. On your clutch, the cogs on either or both the pulley side of the ratchet or the spindle side (moveable spring loaded side) may have gotten worn down so the mating cogs no longer engaged properly in the the forward direction under load. Once the ratchet starts slipping in the forward direction over the face of the cogs, they will lose their intended straight or square faced alignment. This could be caused by a broken or weak coil spring or crud in the mechanism preventing the spring from positively pushing or keeping the moveable side of the cogged clutch together with the other mating half when in the engaged forward direction under load.
It also needs to be oiled occasionally to "keep a film" on the parts. Over oiling can cause premature wear according to the manual.
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