Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
how bad are they to replace? i have nearly no left side brake. i re-adjusted the clevis and i have some improvement but still not very good. they should be able to lock the tire right up. how big of a job is it to replace them. from the looks of it, it does not look like an easy job. looks like the tire has to be removed along with the wheel weight. that wheel weight does not look light and i still havent figured out how i am going to get it back on the tractor when that day does come that it has to be removed.
I never had to replace mine. but if you go to the manuals section of the forum you should get your answers
1955 Farmall Cub
193 Moldboard plow with colter and jointer
Someone recently did a great post concerning that....Great pictures etc.....I'm sure as Jack said its on the how to....It escapes me now as to who it was....Old age ?????
In Memory of 58,286
Just unbolt the wheel hub from the axle. Remove the tire, rim, hub, and wheel weight in one piece. Fairly awkward but you can roll the tire around to get it out of the way. Tire, rim, hub, and wheel weight are the heaviest part of the task.
Final will be the next heaviest piece. Might help to have a shop crane or stout assistant - although I can remove and install the final without assistance.
Be sure and use all safety precautions, including wedging the front axle.
Time wise, good guess would be 3 to 4 hours labor, working by yourself. And depending on equipment and facilities.
Above is the how to section of this site. Read down the list. About 3/4 the way down is a how to on brakes.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I did this recently, and was fortunate to have a "shop crane" (aka engine hoist) to hold the weight of the final during removal and installation. You can roll the wheel away as a unit, and I strongly suggest that you find a place to LEAN it rather than letting it fall to the ground...unless you are an ape, it will make getting it up and rolling it back in place a LOT easier!! As was mentioned later (after I had finished) you probably should also remove the differential seal retainer so you can replace the o-ring there, as well as the seal. You don't want to do it twice, so make sure you check everything and replace that differential seal. Here is the link I posted:
Good luck, and just ask if you have questions or problems...always someone here waiting to answer!!
Last edited by Dale Finch on Mon Jun 24, 2013 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Before buying new brake bands, check to see if there is a significant leak from the inner or outer differential seal. Sometimes oil gets on the band/drum and then there are NO brakes or very little brakes. The oil can be burned off of the band if it has some wear surface left on it and then reused. Simply put a torch on it and let it burn. The brake material will not be damaged, but the oil will burn off and it will be white again.
Eugen and Dale have you covered for taking the final off. Definitely keep the weight, center and rim together and just unbolt the center from the hub...MUCH easier to get it apart that way!!
Mike (Happy as a Lark in Allison Park, PA)
Check out my Restoration Thread (1955 Cub, Lewis)
While you might be able to lock a tire when using one side to tighten a turn, you are not going to be able lock them up when stopping. The cub's brakes are notorious for not being terribly strong in the best of situations.
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
You've gotten a lot of good advise here from those who have experience. Dale has a good point about replacing the o-ring and seal while you have it apart. It could be your lack of brakes is due to oil soaked brake linings. Mike mentioned burning the oil off the brake linings. I too have done that. I soaked them in parts cleaning solvent and then used a propane or Mapp gas torch to burn them off. It worked great. Eugene mentioned making sure you wedge the front axle. If you have a question about doing that you can do a search here to find out how to do this safety step. Just be careful and ask questions if you run into a problem.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
Everything has been pretty well covered so my input is if you decide to remove the wheel/dish/weight as a unit (which is the way I would do it) as has been mentioned have a plan on where to lean it. If you keep it upright it's not difficult to handle, get it tipped a little to far one way or the other and it's gonna be horizontal in a hurry. The second plan after where to put it should be "do I have four feet behind me to get out of the way in a hurry?" in case it does get a little to far over. Better to be standing beside it trying to figure out how to get it vertical again than under it trying to figure out how to get it off of you if things go south.
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online