Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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yes, valspar cub cadet yellow is a terrible. i once repainted some cub cadet parts for my 147 that "cub cadet" yellow was more like brown. i painted my C3 with valspar red, i was pretty pleased with the results. valspar red is avialable from amazon but by the time you pay for shipping you end up with the paint costing almost what iron gaurd costs, plus i have to wait. i can just grab the iron guard and i only have to drive 3 door down to get it.
another question, they can get a decal set for $40. how overpriced is that?? they said its a good quality set
I've only used the CNH Iron Guard 2150 red. Had good results with a HVLP sprayer.
IMO the Iron Guard paint in the rattle cans is a waste of money; the spray nozzles on all the cans I've used end up being defective or inferior before the can is empty. The paint comes out in globs at a certain point (with less than 1/2 a can remaining) and the nozzle spray pattern is less than desireable (for me).
On the other hand, the CNH Paint Thinner is superior. Cuts and cleans the CNH paint with ease. I tried using regular paint thinner or mineral spirits to clean up the Iron Guard paint will dismal results. So, you might want to pick up a couple quarts of the thinner before tackling the paint.
My 1945 Farmall H makeover
Think Iron Guard is expensive price some DuPont Centari red! $70.00 a quart, but it sure worked nice. My last qt was IronGuard. Be careful with it, partial cans will go south sitting on the shelf, don't ask.
"It is impossible for a man to learn what he thinks he already knows." -Epictetus
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I've had a similar experience with the Iron Guard yellow paint rattle cans, at least with the first case. The second and third were a bit better, but still not as good as it should be in my opinion. I was able to get all the paint out of each can, but the propellant definitely runs low before it should. You have to get real crafty with the cans as the pressure runs low and the paint starts blotting out the nozzle. Since I had already started with the paint color, I continued on with it so that the shade matches, but I won't use the Iron Guard rattle cans again on any more projects.
The finished paint looks good, but the agravation of the process is not worth it to me.
FCub - LoBoy - Numbered Series Databases
Put some plastic wrap over the top of the can before sealing the lid, or better yet, lay up a piece on the paint surface in the can if you think it will be on the shelf for a long time.
I use fresh cans for any tin and save the partials for castings where globs are not as noticeable. Red Nason is around $400 a gallon.
dupont centari is good paint, but man that's expensive $70. i wouldnt use that on a tractor that is going to be working to earn its keep. $70 paint getting rubbed and stratched up just doent seem worth it. my main reason for doing this is to protect the metal. it wasnt too badly rusted but the paint was shot and i dont want my tractor looking like some of them that lost their paint and never got repainted. even a bad paint job looks better then rust. i try to do as good as a job as i know how but i never went to autobody classes so i always end up with orange peel, ect. at least it will be a good 5-10 foot job, that is it looks good from a distance. i am pretty good at avoiding runs. apply paint in layers. apply a thin coat let it dry spray it again, if you get any runs which if following that method you shouldnt you wet sand it and spray it again. my work enviroment isnt the best anyways. i have way to many bugs in my barn. its a constant battle and they seem to love fresh paint.
Centari is good paint and it was pretty reasonable in price even at $70.00 a quart. I like the reducer and hardener as well. Unfortunately, Centari is no longer available here thanks to the new VOC rules. Nason is still available but it is even more expensive than Centari. I still have some and that is good. I also still have some of my original CaseIH Iron Gard Red. Iron Gard is a real bargain at $25.00 or so a quart.
Orange peel can be avoided by ensuring that you are using the correct amount of thinners/reducers, temp is in the correct range, how you are painting such as angle/position of the gun, the nozzle size as well as a few other issues. Basically experience will work through this problem. I haven't taken finishing classes either, just been finishing cabinets and furniture with multi-parts for decades.
Centari or Nason are good automotive finishes and when applied properly will last for a very long time. To even keep the finish lasting longer a good coat or two of clear will be beneficial. This makes sense on a restoration type refresh. For a working tractor, Iron Gard is the best stuff to use. Be it rattle cans for touch up (some paint the whole Cub with rattle cans) or quarts for spraying with a gun .. it is a pretty economical finish. You can also add hardener to the Iron Gard and get an even better finish that will be somewhat gas resistant. I do not use rattle cans for anything except touch-ups or interim coats before finishing properly.
All depends on what you want to do and how much room is in your budget for finishing materials. I painted my Cub-54 Blade back in '05 with Case IH Iron Gard with hardener. It is still in top shape and hasn't faded, cracked, chipped or deteriorated in any way. I painted my other blade back in '02 with Nason Federal Yellow. When I sold it 2 years ago it also was still in top notch shape. Both jobs were in my mind well worth the money I spent even though there is a great disparity between the two.
I would have no problem painting any of my Cubs with CaseIH Iron Gard in Red, Yellow or White or recommending it. I like the paint.
Just had a nice surprise a few minutes ago. The local Carquest store has a sign out front that says they mix car paint. Been looking for some Massey Ferguson red and was having no luck with Lowes and others. So I ask the guy behind the counter if he could mix some Massey Ferguson red for my 135. He said he could however he had some already mixed and ready to go. We walked over to a shelf sort of in the back of the store and there is was - Valspar tractor and implement paint just like TSC use to carry. In gallon only but he had it. I asked if all Carquest stores had it and he said they should. So I have a new source that I had never even considered before.
Hope this helps someone that's looking.
From reading all the posts about Valspar Cub yellow it seems even Valspar wants you to paint all your cubs red.
Red = awesome paint......Yellow = terrible
Charles Patek III
Some days - Chicken.......Some days - Feathers
Words to live by....
I did notice the new rattle cans from CaseIH occasionally have 'bad' spray nozzles. If I have a problem with one I swap it out with another can. Actually I save a few good ones in a baby food jar along with sprayer 'straws'. Guess I should have complained??
Must be the pigment, yellow does cost more.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
Have used Wal-Mart self etching primer and IH Red Valspar from Farm & Fleet - came out better than a gun job for me! 5 + years and still looks good on a working tractor! Dusty B
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