Tue Jul 02, 2013 2:22 pm
While on the '54 Cub, the right brake rod feels like it came disconnected from the brake. The pedal sits limp and I've barred the two pedals together as a bandaid in the meantime. Anybody familiar with this having happened? Came up negative on the search results.
Tue Jul 02, 2013 2:33 pm
Assuming it is the straight pull type, and not the toggle link version, the rod has probably come off the band due to rust or metal fatigue.
Tue Jul 02, 2013 2:52 pm
Im not specifically sure of the toggle link but it is a straight rod that connects directly from the pedal to somewhere in the axle housing. I'm hoping it's a job not too far over my head.
Tue Jul 02, 2013 3:20 pm
Follow the rod back into the rear final housing. If it feels like it flops around,it's probably what John described. To fix it you'll need to pull the wheel off, then the rear final to get to the brake band and drum. Once you get more info on the problem, we can help you with the fix.
Tue Jul 02, 2013 3:56 pm
Thanks Bob. Will report back when I have more info.
Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:38 pm
I have the same problem. I'm down to just one brake. Luckily I'm mowing on flat ground and don't use the brakes much. Doing a proper repair is beyond my capability in my little shed and my local Case/New Holland wants $75/hr.
Does anyone think its possible to weld those two pieces together through that little hole in the final drive (assuming the parts aren't badly corroded)? I don't know anything about welding.
PS JB weld didn't work on mine but may on yours. I'm not that familiar with the capability of JB Weld but I've heard its good stuff.
Tue Jul 02, 2013 11:43 pm
I've never been in the final drive so I'm dreading what this will entail but JB Weld (I feel) varies with capability. I personally wouldn't use it on my Cub since I've seen JB Weld fail first hand. Especially since our problem is not looking easy to get to, I want to do it right the first time so I know I won't be visiting it again. Which side failed on yours?
Wed Jul 03, 2013 1:41 am
I have the same problem. On mine the left brake is gone. Since the brake band is similar in function to a brake shoe I'm assuming mine is worn perhaps to the rivets. So I'm just going to order two brake band/rods and just fix the one and I'll have a spare on hand when the other one goes. I have an additional annoying problem - I'm missing one or both of the tough little springs that hold the brake pedals up and so they both flop down.
Wed Jul 03, 2013 2:30 am
Dang, seems like a pretty common issue
Wed Jul 03, 2013 4:39 am
Also check out Steiner for brake/clutch return springs....5.95 plus shipping....
Wed Jul 03, 2013 6:56 am
Raymond did an excellent "how to" on relining brake bands at my place. That can be done fairly inexpensively in about an hour with minimal tools. Removing the final is not difficult, but best done with mechanical assistance or extra help due to the weight. Inside, you'll find the brake band and drum. Often the brake lining is oil soaked (which can be cleaned off with a torch) and the lining doesn't need to be replaced. The other concerns are if the key or set screw have sheared, allowing the drum to rotate on the shaft. At this point, the only other decision is whether to replace seals and/or bearings if the final is leaking or noisy. An easy job at a Cubfest. If the seals and bearings are okay, the brake job is within the talents of anyone willing to ask a few questions along the way.
Wed Jul 03, 2013 1:31 pm
Removing a final drive requires two modestly strong people, a jack, and a set of wrenches. All you need is help to lift the final off, and again to lift it back into place. Maybe 30 minutes of commitment from a friend/neighbor/son/grandkid, in two 15-minute sessions if time is of the essence.
Working alone you can get the tractor jacked up, the wheel off, and all 6 final bolts loosened ahead of time, if your assistant doesn't have time to be there for the whole process.
JB Weld is a filler material for low-strength joints. You are not going to stick two pieces of metal together end-to-end and have them hold under the kind of tension that you put on a brake rod.
If it was rusted enough to break, conventional arc welding will not hold either, unfortunately.
Wed Jul 03, 2013 2:31 pm
Great responses. Thanks guys. With every post, Im feeling a little better about it.
Wed Jul 03, 2013 4:41 pm
The replacement job is not too bad. But, as has been stated, it will likely require some lifting help. Make sure you wedge the front axle for safety and use cribbing after you jack the right side up. When you put the fender back on, make sure it's facing the correct way.
Here is a good source for the parts. http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/288fp.htm
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