Cub 22 Sickle Mower Questions

[Scrivet]

Clogs are part of operating a sickle mower. In addition to what has already been mentioned keep the bar out of/away from what you've already cut. Going over whats already horizontal will just be an instant clog. Sometimes just backing up a little will unclog it. Lifting and lowering the bar repeatedly while backing works sometimes. If you have to get off and clear it lift the bar and SHUT OFF THE PTO at a minimum and better the whole tractor.

Also pen up the dogs and cats if you have any before you start. You can't shut it down faster than Rover can run, at least while he still has all four paws. Yes, that's meant to be a little gory. Better to imagine it now than see it for real while you're mowing.

Used with care, caution, and understanding; the sickle mower can be a pretty handy implement.

[RRRRyan]

I know this is an old thread, but this is my first post and is a Cub 22 question. I've been able to cut a few acres with mine, but I've seen folks mention that it shouldn't shake so much and be so loud. I'm wondering if anyone has any tuning tips for the Cub 22. There seems to be only one hole that works for a bolt on the back pulley guard, which isn't sufficient to keep that from jingling a bit, but I'm sure that's only part of my problem. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

[Bob McCarty]

Here's a link to the manual for the 22 mower (from the tool bar above). It will give you more info than I can. Welcome to the Forum. http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... Mowers.htm

Bob

[Scrivet]

........ There seems to be only one hole that works for a bolt on the back pulley guard, which isn't sufficient to keep that from jingling a bit, but I'm sure that's only part of my problem. ........

I believe earlier ones had only one keyhole shaped hole. Later models had an additional round hole above the keyhole that lined up with the upper mounting pad on the left final. You installed the lower bolt loose, dropped the guard over it, added the second bolt and tightened both. On either style you need to be using the tapered head bolts. They are also a MUST for the front hangar assembly. Noise and vibration can be from out of adjustment parts or from excessive wear. Definitely spend plenty of time reading the manual Bob linked you to.

As far as "shaking so much and being so loud", well, those are subjective terms. Everybody will have a different definition of what loud is. TV for instance, one person may think the volume at 15 is loud, someone else may think you can barely hear it at 35. Whose right? I wouldn't worry too much about it until I was around a good working sickle and "got the feel" for how it sounds and vibrates. Then you'll have something to measure against. Engine speed will also make a difference, not necessarily louder when going faster either, sometimes speed will smooth it out.

And the sickle safety tip of the day; Keep your palms and fingers flat and you'll keep your fingers when you raise the bar into the transport position.

And welcome to the forum!

[RRRRyan]

Thanks for the welcomes, responses, & the PMs too. I did not use tapered bolts, and IIRC the single bolt hole is square, and I imagine with just the right tapered bolt it would lock quite nicely, as it is with my off-the-shelf version not only is the head precariously close to the pulley wheel, but since there is only one hole even tightened down real tight the guard rotates with the vibration. I'll look through that manual again and see if I can get the exact size and install a better match bolt. I'm getting to notice some creative parts on this thing. In one spot an old metal barn door latch is used to replace a bracket. Sure is fun to drive. Something about a nearly 70 year old tractor thumping along that is therapeutic & good for the soul.

[Jim Becker]

........ There seems to be only one hole that works for a bolt on the back pulley guard, which isn't sufficient to keep that from jingling a bit, but I'm sure that's only part of my problem. ........

I believe earlier ones had only one keyhole shaped hole. Later models had an additional round hole above the keyhole that lined up with the upper mounting pad on the left final.

RRRRyan, I believe you are talking about the upper drive shield (belt guard) while Scrivet is talking about attaching the rear bracket to the final drive housing. The book calls out 1/4 x 1/2 slotted round head screws ("stove bolts") for the drive shield. Square holes suggest carriage bolts, so maybe they changed from slotted head to carriage bolts.

In any case, tapered head bolts should be used in (and ONLY in) any hole that has a countersink, which includes most main mounting points. Due to the vibration, you need to regularly check all the bolts to make sure they are tight. Doing it every day before you start mowing is not excessive. The hold down clips on the cutter bar need to be tight against the knife (not tight enough to bind, but no slack). The innermost clip in particular, not only has a big impact on cutting but reduces noise and vibration by keeping the knife from slapping up and down.

[RRRRyan]

I'm missing the upper drive shield on this, didn't even know it existed until I saw the manual. I'm referring to the lower drive shield and do see that it says 3/8 x 1" machine bolt. Thanks so much for the list of things to check. She's gonna probably stay parked for a while until I can check all of those.