Farmall Cub

Ken, "My Uncle Bob" looked the same way. Probably from running the muffler into a tree limb. It is my understanding that the hole for the air cleaner is extruded, but the exhaust hole has no flange........ thus following the contour of the hood. If this is wrong, others will chime in.

Looks just like both of mine.

I guess I am missing something, that is bent and appears obvious. The same being said about your other hood post , that is bent also.

Boss Hog wrote:I guess I am missing something, that is bent and appears obvious. The same being said about your other hood post , that is bent also.

Boss - everything has been been in this condition so long and because I've not seen the hood off in 40+ years, I wanted to verify. For the hood opening - it seem plausable that it was perhapos shaped somewhat similar to it's current state to make a clearance. For the front, I was unsure if the spring outward was to be pulled in during installation.

Very obvious to many of you who've been working on Cubs at this level of detail for many years. Now that this is confirmed - my next Cub won't require a repeat question.

Thanks for your confirmation.

Ken, my guess is the hole was pierced in the sheet metal prior to forming the hood. There is not boss around the hole. Things are really looking good there.

Ken:

The exhaust pipe hole follows the shape of the hood. Rick Prentice posted a procedure for drilling a hole into the hood. I think maybe the originals were stamped You need to use some molly's and bang out that tin.

The actual shape of the hole in the metal is not round as you may have noticed, but viewed from directly above the hole it should give a round appearance. Think two dimensional to see it as a round hole.

Yep, you should be in good shape after you use a dolley and hammer similar to this setup


The hole edge on your hood looks good. Yes, it is a round hole if you climb a tree and look straight down

Something to consider, check the two front brackets that fasten the hood to the radiator supports(make adjustments) and also check the dash for cracks at the base where it bolts down to the torque tube(corners are known to crack).

Rick

Rick Prentice wrote:Yep, you should be in good shape after you use a dolley and hammer similar to this setup


The hole edge on your hood looks good. Yes, it is a round hole if you climb a tree and look straight down

Something to consider, check the two front brackets that fasten the hood to the radiator supports(make adjustments) and also check the dash for cracks at the base where it bolts down to the torque tube(corners are known to crack).

Rick

Rick, a set very similar to the one pictured will be delivered Monday from TP Tools. The two front brackets are GONE - Cecil's going to help me position those when the time is right. The dash, is indeed cracked and will be drilled to keep the crack from spreading and either wire welded or brazed.

Thanks Rick et al, Ken

Ken,

For help in removing sheet metal bumps, dings, dents, and other imperfections, I recommend this short book http://www.eastwood.com/key-to-metal-bumping-book.html. A bit of time reading this will help reduce a steep learning curve to more manageable proportions, not to mention possibly save a good bit of time.

Bill

Bill Hudson wrote:Ken,

For help in removing sheet metal bumps, dings, dents, and other imperfections, I recommend this short book http://www.eastwood.com/key-to-metal-bumping-book.html. A bit of time reading this will help reduce a steep learning curve to more manageable proportions, not to mention possibly save a good bit of time.

Bill

I second this. STUDY a copy of that book and do what it says. All the basics are explained. After reading it, I can actually do some sheet metal work.

You mean this isn't what it's suppose to look like?

Bill Hudson wrote:Ken,

For help in removing sheet metal bumps, dings, dents, and other imperfections, I recommend this short book http://www.eastwood.com/key-to-metal-bumping-book.html. A bit of time reading this will help reduce a steep learning curve to more manageable proportions, not to mention possibly save a good bit of time.

Bill

Ordered - Can't wait.

http://www.amazon.com/Key-To-Metal-Bumping-Book/dp/B002S4Y7RS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373848539&sr=8-2&keywords=the+key+to+metal+bumping

PVF1799 wrote:

Bill Hudson wrote:Ken,

For help in removing sheet metal bumps, dings, dents, and other imperfections, I recommend this short book http://www.eastwood.com/key-to-metal-bumping-book.html. A bit of time reading this will help reduce a steep learning curve to more manageable proportions, not to mention possibly save a good bit of time.

Bill

Ordered - Can't wait.

http://www.amazon.com/Key-To-Metal-Bumping-Book/dp/B002S4Y7RS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373848539&sr=8-2&keywords=the+key+to+metal+bumping

Ken,

Doesn't matter where you get it. It does matter how much you STUDY (as Jim said) it. Well worth the time.

Bill