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I read several posts concerning charging issues and was a little overwhelmed with all of the threads so my apologies for the redundant question. I rebuilt my '56 last summer and installed a new wiring harness and replaced any old/bad wires I found during the teardown. As Cubs seems to do, it fired right off after the first pull and runs great after I put it all back together. I noticed the ameter would peg to the charge side after start-up then settle down just north of "0" but never showed discharge. I assumed between new paint, new wires and everything else that was torn apart and put back together there were a few kinks to work out. Today I noticed the ameter stayed to the discharge side and with the lights on the meter bottoms out. When I first got this tractor I found a great troubleshooting tree to track down a bad regulator. I'm trying to find that same tree again; I think it covered more than just the Cubs but it had all wires and terminals labeled and it was very easy to follow. Does anyone know where to find it? I'm sure I got it from this forum but it might have been a thread on here. Thanks
I think this is what you are looking for
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Mainte ... 0Chart.jpg
'50 H, '52 Super C, '54 Cub, '57 Cub, '58 Cub, '95 Cub Cadet 1440
Make sure all the connections are clean and bright metal - grounds, terminals, etc. Paint is not a good conductor. Did you polarize the Generator?
Does this help at all?
Tractorboy3, Thanks for the chart. I found this one as well but it wasn't the same one I used a few years ago. The one I was looking for actually had a schematic with the chart and color codes for the wiring. I think it had all of the volt readings as well. And Rudi, I did polarize the generator (more than once). I just found it odd that it's been charging for about a year and then it has decided to start discharging. I forgot to mention, and don't know if this makes a difference, but I added a Battery Tender lead to the batt posts and attach the charger whenever I park the tractor. I don't think this is an issue because this charger actually displays the percent of charge and it is always 95% or better.
Those Battery Minders/Tenders are worth their weight in gold.
The lead isn't grounding out by any chance is it
I am trying to figure out what schematic that is. Will search and see what I can find.
Biscuit; I don't know if the one in this thread is the one you meant, but it may help.
Mark "birddog" Birdeau
Rudi, No it's not grounding out since I have a cover for it when not in use and I pulled the batt cover off just to make sure it wasn't grounding out. And you're right, those tenders are awesome; I've had the same batt in my 4-wheeler since '06 and it keeps cranking. Birddog, that isn't the one I used but it's the one I'm going to use. It has the same steps as the link Tractorboy posted but it also has the readings. I think I'll pull the hood and use Rudi's schematic and do a once-over on all of my connectors. I have a feeling I'll be changing a VR. Thanks to all for the help.
If you redid it to 6 volts and them started putting the battery tender on it , was it a 6 or 12 volt tender. If 12 volt tender it is very possible your problem is the VR.
The tender I'm using is actually a Sears analyzer/combo 6-12 volt but I'm tracking with you. I have an actual Battery Tender that is 12V I use on my boat batt and small engine batts.
So I finally got around to putting the troubleshooting tree to use. I made it to the step where you jump FLD from Gen to Batt GND. I couldn't get to the generator itself with the hood on so I jumped from the FLD on the VR to Batt GND. The guage didn't just move to charge, it jumps all the way to the right. I don't know if this indicates a bad VR as the tree states or if this is not a true reading since it's jumped from the VR terminal instead of directly at the generator. Anyone one?
Thanks Art. I pulled the VR off and ohmed out underneath from the mount hole back through the resistor and it checked good. I then ohmed from the mount hole to the inside where the solder is and it checked good. However, there is a small wire that goes from the solder to a coil (?) in the VR on "L" terminal. I can't get it to ohm at all but i don't know if it is supposed to be a ground or not. I'm assuming it is since it's soldered there.
Biscuit: I also have a thread on voltage regulators that may help, find it here.
Mark "birddog" Birdeau
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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