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Glad its working....I mentioned diode from experience....I stood looking stupefied after a 12 volt conversion when I tried to shut the old girl down.....That was before I joined the forum and was just relying on what I could remember from the 1963/64 boces auto mechanics class......LOL...This forum is great... Lots of good people here......Dave
In Memory of 58,286
If the other "oiled" areas were that bad, you should check the fan. I'd bet it's dry too.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
The fan hub? I did. Turned it to three o'clock and removed the screw, filled it, turned it to 6 o'clock to drain the excess and put the screw back in. It was thirsty.
Nobody knows the troubles I have seen.
I dove into it this morning to finish the wiring and i'm struggling to get the hood off...didn't realize the gas tank and hood are integral. No problem, I got it off. The breather cover came off with some effort but the real trouble began with the muffler. It looked like it was in fine shape but it was rotted at the base and when it broke a fair amount of the debris went straight down into the manifold.
Can i vacuum it out if I take the riser off down to where it taps into the manifold or do i need to take the intake off? I think already know the answer. Ten dollars says the bolts are rotted that secure the intake. Oh snap.
The good news is i got me a brand new muffler, clamp and rain cap. God bless Tractor Supply!
The exhaust pipe won't unscrew from the manifold without a fight, either...
I would try to rig up a length of garden hose on the shop vac to reach down the pipe and suck up what I could. You'll probably need to pull the larger pieces out stuck to the end of the hose.
You could also start the tractor with no muffler and let the engine blow the bits out.
Don't worry, the rust can't get into the cylinders. The only time the exhaust valves are open is when the engine is on the "blow" stroke. It never sucks on the exhaust unless it's running backwards.
Best news I've had all day. Thank you, Matt.
Can anyone explain to to me what these electrical wire are coming off the tee on my oil pressure gauge? It has two wires, one leading to a terminal on the alternator and the other leading to the starter switch (cranking motor).
Looks to me like someone added a low oil cutout, like what's on a Honda engine. Definitely not original to the tractor. I think I'd take that baby out all together, T and all, and thread the oil pressure gauge back into the filter housing. Just double check how it's wired because it may not start if you just unplug it. Those switches are either "normally open" or "normally closed" so you can check this by disconnecting the wires and touching each terminal with your volt meter set to ohms.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
Continuity test? This has turned into one nightmare of a job for a guy who doesn't have any working knowledge of twelve volt electrical systems. Do you mind if I post a couple more pictures and pick your brain a bit? I'm not even certain what some of the major components are. I recognize a distributor but not the silver box atop it. Note the wire lead off the bottom of the distributor.
The coil for your magnito is inside that silver box. The wire on the side goes to the kill switch (ground, no voltage). If you take that tee and switch out, your alt. won't charge ( if it's a 10si) The mag and alt. are 2 seperate circuits.
Have a good day, Art
In order for you to fully appreciate my lack of understanding of this wiring I have to ask you a question...would that coil be six or twelve volt? Where does a ballast resistor come into play here?
I probably can tax your patience but I hope I don't.
Thank you, Art and all of those attempting to walk me through this.
No external voltage needed for a mag. The ballast resistor is not needed.
If you had a battery ignition then you would need the resistor.
Hope this thins the mud a little for you and doesn;t make it worse.
Have a good day, Art
The wiring diagram showed it going from the distributor to the ignition coil, then to the ballast resistor and then to the ignition switch. Am I correct that I can run a length of wire directly from the distributor to the ignition switch?
Posco, your two pics tell me you need to back up a bit here. Forget everything said about ballast resisters, diodes and coil voltage. You have a fully functioning magneto, which requires no electrical connection, other than a wire to the kill switch to ground the mag to shut the engine down, it will run without that wire even hooked up, you just can't shut it down.. The pressure switch tee'd into your oil pressure gauge is a method for operating your 10si alternator when no ignition circuit is available to do so, actually pretty clever, leave it alone. With the pressure switch, there is no need for a diode, either. The lead from the pressure switch simply connects to the alternator where the diagram shows the diode being connected. You need to look at the magneto and the rest of the electrical system as two separate systems, which are in no way connected to each other.
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