Farmall Cub

$150 for a good used one

kjoiner wrote:...
So it looks like I'll need another front casting and I'm probably going to replace the radiator as well. So here are my questions:

1. What's the best way to support the tractor while removing the front casting? It looks like the front end is supported by the underside below the steering gear. I'm assuming I probably need to bolt to the bosses on the side of the engine rather than place blocks under the oil pan.
2. Since I'll be pulling the steering gear apart, what seals and other items will I need?
3. Is the front crank seal pretty much a pull and replace job?
4. As far as sourcing a new casting, I see Steiner has one but it's around $360. Are there other sources? I'm in the Atlanta area. What's a decent price on a front casting?
5. Any other tips or tricks?

1. You can support the front of the tractor with either blocks under the engine, have the engine supported from overhead (sling load), or by bolting braces into the torque tube. Any way you go, use caution!
2. There is a seal on the bottom of the gear box, a seal where the shaft comes in, and two gaskets. Replace them now if you have oil leak issues. There are also 4 bushings in there. So if you have slop/play in the steering, check them out as well.
3. The front seal isn't really a "pull and replace" job. It isn't too bad, but special tools and considerations need to be taken before jumping into this one.
4. Place a want add on the forum. You'll get a few hits, if someone doesn't contact you first.
5. Since you have to pull the hood, drain the fuel first. Have a couple saw-horses handy to set it on. Replace the governor spring while things are open and easier to get to. Oil the fan housing.

Check out the "how-to" section for threads on topics you've asked about here. Many good ideas and tips can be found there!

Kyle:

kjoiner wrote:
1. What's the best way to support the tractor while removing the front casting? It looks like the front end is supported by the underside below the steering gear. I'm assuming I probably need to bolt to the bosses on the side of the engine rather than place blocks under the oil pan. How To Safely Disassemble A Culti-Vision Tractor
2. Since I'll be pulling the steering gear apart, what seals and other items will I need? TC-37A (5-2-49) - Chassis
3. Is the front crank seal pretty much a pull and replace job? TC-37A (5-2-49) - Engine
4. As far as sourcing a new casting, I see Steiner has one but it's around $360. Are there other sources? I'm in the Atlanta area. What's a decent price on a front casting? - As Raymond said - Wanted - register with same userID as here, go click on link in activation email, log in and post your want.
5. Any other tips or tricks? - There are literally hundreds and hundreds. You have to be more specific .. but suggest you peruse the CBoK and the How To Forum

Just to clarify, you do not need to pull the crank pulley to replace the bolster.

you do not to take the front pulley off

bythepond88 wrote:Just to clarify, you do not need to pull the crank pulley to replace the bolster.

But if the front seal leaks it is the perfect to take care of it. Otherwise, definitely leave it alone.

Hello,

Thanks for all the responses. My main concern when pulling the bolster is safety and properly supporting the tractor while the bolster is off. Since the rear wheels will still be on, I shouldn't have the issues that are shown in the picture with the tractor tipping - pretty scary. I'll probably build some type of support cribbing to hold the front end up. The tractor is in a pole barn type building with doubled 2 x 10 rim joists so I'll probably use a strap as well just in case. I think I'll leave the crank seal alone. If it leaks at all, it's very slight. I'll check out the wanted section for a bolster and see what comes up.

Kyle

Kyle:

You could surely use the 2x10's provided there isn't too much load on them already. Splitting stands might be an idea/option. Here are a few possibilities:

Equipment For Your Cub



• How To Make Kodiak's Cub Splitting Stands
• How To Make Tractor Splitting Stands from Scaffold Jacks
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• How To Make Rick Dulas's Tractor Jack Stands
• How To Make Ricky Racer's Tractor Jack Stands
• How To Make Todd W's Tractor Splitting Stand
• How To Make Dave Winfield's Easy Tractor Stand
• How To Make Frederick's Plywood Splitting Stands

Kyle, Whatever you decide have a plan b, if the first one fails......Fail Safely...Dave

Hello,

I welded up a jacking bracket to lift the Cub so I can remove the front end. I've got the two ends of the tube sticking out so I can place my jack stands under it once it's jacked up. I just need to get some more boards since it's on gravel.

Kyle


http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3827/9487 ... 935b_m.jpg

Shoot, he sent me a message and I missed it. Well, I picked up one of the ones from Steiner, so it looks like I'll be a test subject. I'll keep you updated on how it goes. Will I need an impact wrench to get the original bolts off? Also, how much torque is used when reinstalling them?

I also picked up a new radiator and gasket along with gaskets and seals for the steering box. I can tell you that the Steiner casting already has a bronze bearing installed for the steering gear shaft.

Kyle

I did some checking in the specifications PDF file and it looks like the torque is 150-170 ft-lbs. Is that correct?

Thanks,

Kyle

Kyle:

I don't think so .. that is way too much. More like 35 ft lbs.

HI Rudy,

I think the 35 ft-lbs is for the base plate that goes under the main housing. I'm thinking those 5/8 bolts have to be pretty tight since they support the front end of the tractor. I haven't tried breaking the original ones loose yet and that may tell me a little on how tight the were at the factory.

Kyle

Kyle:

I don't make this stuff up ... that is why I referenced the Blue Ribbon Service Manuals. It is very clear that the two cap srews on each side which actually hold the front bolster to the engine casting are called out in paragraph 3 to be torqued to 35 ft lbs. Any more than that and you may risk busting/stripping the casting. The block is already prone to cracking there as it is a known weak spot. That is why we use ear supports to strengthen that particular area.