Pressure testing radiator

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Re: Pressure testing radiator

Postby kjoiner » Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:02 pm

Hi Rudi,

I just wanted to double check since it holds everything on the front end but if the housing or block cracked or stripped that would be a nightmare. The torque spec I saw was from page 15 of the GSS-1008 Specifications manual where it mentions the 5/8" crank case to steering gear housing bolts. I have the same concerns as you do on the tapped holes and the casting itself with that much torque.

http://www.farmallcub.com/fcman/index.p ... es/Service Manuals/Blue Ribbon Service Manuals&order=0

Kyle
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Re: Pressure testing radiator

Postby Rudi » Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:09 pm

Kyle:

I see that .... :? I looked at the Specifications manual before checking the GSS-1411, must have missed that.

Image

Hmm.. I think that the manual is a bit confusing unless you read it a few times. What I took to read as 35 ft lbs may be for the steering shaft only. So, probably would go with what the GSS-1008 calls for. It sure sounds excessive so I would sneak up on it I think. When I do the ear supports next week I will check and see what happens. This has me curious.
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Re: Pressure testing radiator

Postby kjoiner » Tue Aug 13, 2013 5:25 pm

Hi Rudi,

I agree the manuals can be a little confusing. It seems since they call out torque specs on other fasteners on the reinstallation page that would also call out the torque for the 5/8" bolts there as well instead of putting them another manual. I looked around for some general torque specs for 5/8" bolts and they call out 150-170 ft-lbs but it depends on the grade of bolt. Like you recommend, I'm going to sneak up on it with my torque wrench and see how it feels. Plus, my torque wrench maxes out at 150 ft-lbs so I definitely won't be going beyond that. :D

What do you think about the pipe fitting that screws into the casting for the lower radiator hose? Some Teflon tape and a snug it up? Since my system won't be pressurized it shouldn't be too much of an issue. I find it kind of strange that the manual mentions installing the fitting after the casting is already installed.

By the way, how did you paste the image from the manuals on the page? I'm missing something in the process.

Thanks again for all your help (and patience!) :D

Kyle
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Re: Pressure testing radiator

Postby Rudi » Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:16 pm

Kyle:

Pipe plug - teflon tape or paste on the threads and snug it up. No need to reef on it.

kjoiner wrote:By the way, how did you paste the image from the manuals on the page? I'm missing something in the process.


I used the jpeg images from my server. You tried to put a pdf in an image tag from what it looks like. Pdf's are fine for some things but absolutely useless for linking images.
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Re: Pressure testing radiator

Postby kjoiner » Fri Aug 16, 2013 7:00 pm

Hello,

I cracked the fasteners loose just to get an idea of how tight they were. I used a 1/2" breaker bar and the blind hole fasteners did not feel like they had anywhere near the 150 ft-lbs of torque - maybe 90-100 ft-lbs. It could have been the casting was removed at one point to fix the crack or they've been bounced around for 64 years but I'm not sure. The bolts with nuts were much tighter but I would still say they were less than 150 ft-lbs. Interestingly, the nuts use a 1" socket where the bolts use a 7/8 socket.

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Re: Pressure testing radiator

Postby kjoiner » Wed Aug 28, 2013 5:41 pm

Hello,

Well, I got the casting and all of the parts off the front end. Before that, I removed the lower drain plug for the steering box and nothing came out, except some grease. Once I pulled the steering box apart, I found out why. I guess the lower seal was leaking at some point and the box was packed with grease instead - lots of nasty grease that probably had some water in it as well. Anyway, I soaked the parts and cleaned them with mineral spirits and got them cleaned up. I've got a couple of questions:

1. When I removed the steering arm, I saw the bronze thrust washer and removed it. While the steering casting was soaking, apparently a small shim about .023 thick was hidden under grease and fell out into the bin. I think it goes under the thrust washer to set up the clearances but I'm not sure. Does it go under the thrust washer or under the steering gear (on the inside)?

2. What is the correct torque for the castle nut once I put everything back together?

3. Is the steering arm supposed to be a tight fit over the shaft without tightening the lock screw? I'll need to reassemble everything and check for excess play or binding with the steering worm and if it's not right, I'll have to pull it apart and make adjustments. Any advice on this procedure or am I overthinking it?

4. I'll be replacing the lower seal and was wondering if I should polish up the shaft a little to clean up any rough spots to minimize any damage to the new seal.

Thanks,

Kyle
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