Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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I fully restored a 1958 Farmall Cub about a year and half ago. I use the unit for mowing a new evergreen "plantation" (one acre). The Cub runs great and performs the mowing fine. But, I noticed a "clunk" noise recently when I begin to back the unit into my building. I've jacked the front end off the ground and pulled and pushed on the front wheels and axles and am not able to produce the clunk. The steering box and tie rods are reasonable without slack but not tight. I've tried to wobble each front tire/rim but could not find any looseness. The axle pivot pin is in good condition and without looseness. Have any of you had this condition? If so, please tell me where else to look for it and how to remedy it. My current thinking is that the clunk may be caused by the toe-in of the front wheels...when I change from forward motion to back motion, the front wheels may flair and cause the noise in the steering system.
Did you also check for end play at that pin (axle tube able to move front/rear)?
If you have wheel weights, check them too.
Check for spindle movement in the vertical housing where the spindles pivot from. Try grabbing the bottom of the spindle by the hub and move it front to back.
48 cub with full cultivators
48 cub all original 6 volt, hand crank, muffler, front + rear wheel weights, and fast hitch and a 1000 loader
Left hand plow, right hand plow, disc, grader/snow blade, lots of cultivator stuff, woods 42, and a few others
More than likely you are missing a washer in between the axle pivot and the lower bolster housing, there should be one in the front and one in the rear. As Jim Said
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8th Va fest link viewtopic.php?f=8&t=81392&p=657790#p657790
In addition to the other things listed, also check for loose bolts holding the finals to the transmission. Only one guess as to how I know this. I was hearing the forward reverse clunk and while looking for it saw a fender rock forward.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
You might also check the clamp tightness on the front axle if you have an adjustable one. I recently found one side of mine a tad loose by noticing the hole with the pin being wallered out slightly.
If not that, I agree with Jim and Boss on making sure you have enough shims on the front axle pivot pin.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
I found the source of my Cub's front end "clunk"! The Cub has an adjustable front axle. The clamps (left and right) that lock the front axle center tube to the telescoping outer spindles were loose. The clunk came from the outer (right side) spindle turning until the vertical locking pin was contacted, one way when going forward and the other direction when backing-up. While inspecting for the source of the clunk, I found the steering box pivot arm a bit loose so I tightened this too. The clunk was found by driving the front of the tractor back and forth over a bump in my concreter driveway apron. I probably got 1-1/2 to 2 turns on both of the axle clamp bolts on each end of the axle tube.
My last tractor has the front axle stuck in the tube. The last owner tried using heat w/o succes. Advice on treating that would be good to hear.
ps I dont suppose using coca-cola (like on a froze up engine) would help?
The glass is half full
the upper portion is wasted material
the content is delicious, cold and refreshing!
I was very patient with mine - Days of Kroil. The one side came out well. The other side was not put in greased and was stuck. I used Kroil for a week.....then heat and a locust block. Check out this post for another idea
Pleasant View Farm - Est. 1799
My Restoration Project - FCUB '48 - Rex
All the pointers and advise from forum members was really helpful in leading me to the fix for my FCub clunk. I also own a Super A that I wanted to change the tire width about a year ago. Boy, the SA spindles were a real bear to loosen. I first tried to pull them outward by parking with the front axle between two large trees (used for winch anchor points). I had 3000 pound pull winches tethered between each tree and each spindle. I maxed-out the winches and lubed and banged all over the telescoping portions without success. I ended up taking the front axle to a commercial welder who used the better part of a whole acetylene tank to heat the outer tube before it would release. I didn't have a lot of paint prep to do to re-finish the parts once apart!
Our small IHC's are very handy machines to assist in caring for property. Although they (mine) require regular maintenance to keep in good working order, the many attachments and the overall way they're set up (hydraulics, PTO, tire options and variable stance, drawbars, plows/blades, etc) makes these units really useful. I have learned a lot about engines and mechanical power equipment by working with these units over the years. I hope the manufactures continue to make and have available good parts.
Thanks to all, again, for your good advice and direction in this matter.
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