Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:17 pm
Been a while but I am back for some help. The sickel bar on my cub tends to jump of the bolt that the front housing hangs from. Usually when I am in thicker grass. Am I just trying to cut something I shouldn't or is it something I am missing? Should I cut the first run taller and then go back? Just purchased five more acres that adjoin my home and will need to start cutting it at least a few times per year.
As always any help will be appreciated.
Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:02 pm
Are you using the tapered implement bolt or just a regular 5/8" bolt. The tapered head will lock into the countersunk hanger hole and keep the hanger secured to the casting. Or, the hanger countersunk may have become wallered (technical term)out. At any rate, the bolts should be checked often while mowing, because they will work loose.
Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:35 pm
Interesting, when I purchased my cub it came with the bar mounted. It is hung by a long bolt that runs through the tube there is no thread. Mine more or less just hangs there, could that be my problem I wounder?
Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:48 pm
Yea, that's not right. The hanger should be on with the tapered bolt. Nothing else will hold it in place. I can't believe that it ever stayed in place at all. Regardless, you've got a couple of options.
1. You could make up some tapered washers, put them on the existing bolt, and tighten it all down. This may work with the least amount of cost or effort.
2. Try getting the correct tapered implement bolts, and hopefully that long bolt hasn't worn out the implement mounting holes, but I'm guessing that the reason the long bolt is in there is because the holes were already worn out.
3. Make up a steel plate for each side, maybe 1/2" thick, that will fit above the top of the hanger for the sickle mower, then you can put a bolt through it into the top implement mounting hole on that same pad. This way, once the sickle mower is in place, and the plat installed above it, there would be no way for it to back up and off of the existing long bolt.
Get us some pics and let us know what you come up with.
Tue Aug 06, 2013 4:19 pm
the best thing to do is to get some tapered impliment bolts for a A or super A-140. drill and tap to proper size to use those bolts. Have to tighten them down real tight.. Keep in mind if your pitman arm is not of proper size it will throw the ballance off so much it will shake everything apart.. I have seen pitmans made of pipe that tore chunks right out of the bell housing.
Tue Aug 06, 2013 8:02 pm
Also check the bushing in the mower drive tube-any amount of slop makes the whole mower shake badly,which isn't good for a number of reasons.
Tue Aug 06, 2013 8:07 pm
this will stop the problem.i just welded it on the outside in case I ever wanted to go back original it would easy to grind back off
Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:44 am
As always this is the place to go for help. Looks like I got bambozzled on the purchase. Yes I can see now that the treads are gone. Looks like the welded on block will do the trick.
thanks to all again
Wed Aug 07, 2013 11:42 pm
The threads can either be repaired by drilling and tapping for 3/4" or with a helicoil.
Thu Aug 08, 2013 11:53 am
I like the solid inserts for this application. They use a standard tap size and don't require any special insertion tools. It kind of depends on how large the wallered hole is and much larger it needs to be for the smaller OD insert.
Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:24 pm
I wouldn't be afraid to make that welded block permanent. I've seen perfectly good sickle mowers still loosen up that single bolt on each side. I cannot for the life of me figure out why they just didn't build it from the factory to use both implement mounting bolts. They could have left the bottom one as a hanger so it's easy to install just like it's designed, then had a hole drilled in the plate above for a second bolt (just like bear's design above).
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