Dennis, lets see. You are thinking about replacing the pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets. That's 95% of a complete rebuild. The only thing your missing is a bore and valve job. Maybe a crank grinding. Add those and you've got a new motor that will last another 50 years.
Remember the cylinders don't wear evenly. They wear more at each end of the bore, less in the middle. You have to set the end gap for the smallest portion of the bore. The end gap will open up at the bottom and top of the bore. With new bores the bore is even and the end gap remains the same through it's stroke giving maximum power and minimum oil consumption.
Now I may catch some flack for this, but if you don't want to pull the engine out and pay someone to bore it out, you can if you take your time and be careful, hone it out to the next over size bore. Using the correct hone makes the job pretty easy and starting out with coarse stones, you'd be surprised how quickly the material comes out. Switching to finer stones will leave a beautiful cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls. I would recommend this over putting new rings and pistons in old bores.
This style of hone is what I would recommend.
Over sized bearings are made for a ground crankshaft. If the crankshaft is worn chances are good it didn't wear evenly either. Pulling the crank and inspecting the journals is recommended and if wear is detected the journals should be ground.
So just by adding a bore job, valve grinding and crank grinding if needed (the last motor I rebuilt, the crank didn't require grinding and used standard bearings) you will have a new engine. To me that's a much better option than new pistons in tapered worn bores, new bearings on worn or scored journals so you can do it again in a few years.