Farmall Cub

Tonight after work I spent some time on the tires from the Red one, got all 4 wheels off the tractor and all 4 tires dismounted.
I now have 3 N/G tires to get rid of and 1 so-so rear tire that I might keep as a spare, just in case.
The 2 rear rims that I was hoping to use, ??? the one that I thought was good is the worse of the 2, rusted out at the valve area, the one that I thought might be N/G is in many ways better that the other.
Going to have to pull the rear wheels off the White one and see what the rims look like inside, this is the tractor that has the best tires, matched pair. It also has ha half decent pair of Tri-ribs on it that should be good with tubes.
Basically tear apart 8 wheels and and use the best 4 rims, with tires.

How much do rear wheel weights weigh?

Doug, Rear weights are about 150 lbs. each. You might be able to weld a heavy washer to repair the valve area. The inside of the rim could be sandblasted, painted, and wrapped with duct tape prior to mounting.

Bob

Thanks, good idea, going to pull the other ones apart first and see what they look like, maybe 1 of them is going to be better.???

Tonight I got all 4 wheels off the White one.

Fronts were easy, pulled the tires off the rims and these rims look better than the Red one so I'll use them, the tires are mismatched, same size and type (tri-rib) just looking and different brand. Both tires have a lot of cracks, going to price a new pair and if not too much, ???.

The rears I pulled the whole wheel off the hub, tire, rim, weight, one unit, rolled them to where I could lay them down and then pulled off the weights. Removed the tire valve and the calcium is draining. I have a big gravel driveway.

Tomorrow I'll see if I can get the tires off the rims and see how bad the rims are compared to the Red one.

What did you mean by "white" tractor?

Dan:

I think he has a '50 Demonstrator, at least that is how I am interpreting it.

Bob McCarty wrote:The inside of the rim could be sandblasted, painted, and wrapped with duct tape prior to mounting.

for my little trailer I refurbished some mid 30s chevy p' up spoke rims with horribly rust-pitted inner bead walls...they'd been sitting in the elements for 40+ years with water collecting between the old tire and inner rim. Had to sawzall the old tires off.

after the magic of electrolysis and a wire wheel I troweled in a coating of jb weld, using a cardboard template cut to match the inner profile of the damaged inner rim lip.

I rigged a vertical pivot on the workbench upon which i could center the rim horizontally and spin by hand, scraping the epoxy to the correct profile. This filled not only all the rust pits and divots, but the slight notches where i kissed the edge with the sawzall. After it set for a while, i smoothed any little ridges and bumps left with a damp (spit) finger as i spun the rim. I let it set up a couple days, quick lick with some fine sandpaper to rough up the spit-glossed epoxy, paint and they looked near new.

Wouldn't pass tech at Bonneville, but my guess reliable at our subsonic speeds. ymmv

Thanks for the tips and help guys, tonight I did nothing on it.

Tonight I got all the calcium out of the last 2 rear tires and demounted them. Looks like I got 2 good rear tires and I'm going to use 1 rim from the Red tractor and 1 rim from the White tractor, best 2 of the 4.

Parts to get

2 - new rear tubes.
1 - muffler
2 - new front tires, ??? still debating on whether to get them or not, another $120. - $150. ???

Next is the hard part, clean de-rust, prime and paint. Already have the paint and Decals for it.
Tomorrow I have to work 1/2 day and the forecast is RAIN.

Oh BTW I use Fred Flintstone tools to demount the tires like this, works good.
DH1 tire bead breaker

Doug:

I bought a set of these last fall and picked em up at Cecil's. 400x12,400-12,4.00x12,4.00-12 I/H CUB 185 Front 3 Rib Tractor Tires with Tubes Shipping was very reasonable. Pretty darn good tri-ribs and the tubes are included

Yesterday I did nothing on it, but today I did.
I put 2 Ford ranger wheels, 15" with tires on the rear, 2 - 12"garden tractor tires on the front and drove it around a bit. It turns tight.
I notice a lot of play in the steering, where the tie rods attach to the spindle (pic) really sloppy. I tightened up the set screw and now no play there, either side.


This arm moves up and down before it goes sideways, any body know how to fix or is it better to just leave it alone?


This is the battery box I have on the Red one


And the White one, not sure if it's original or not? Looks like parts missing.


Sorted though all the wheels, tires rims, centers, weights and hardware, need to get some new hardware. Cleaned and degreased them.
This is what I going to use.

Only allowed 6 pictures so here's the rest.



Last picture shows one of the bolts holding on the rear weights.

Also removed some of the tin, fuel tank and cleaned degreased the whole tractor, one step closer to paint. Still lots of prep work to do.

What do these letters mean on this Decal by the light switch?

Doug, In the second picture- to tighten that, you remove a cotter pin on the castellated nut on the bottom of the steering shaft. Then you can tighten the nut to remove the play. If that doesn't fix the problem, the thrust washer and/or bushing are probably worn out. The weights are held on by carriage bolts. The wheel center to rim are a fine thread, square head bolt unless the rims were replaced with round loop rims. The letters on the light switch are low charge, high charge, dim headlight, and bright headlight (although bright is an exaggeration). My eyesight must be bad, I can't see the battery box on the red Cub . The white Cub is missing the battery box top and front. Do you know what a Demonstrator Cub is?

Bob

Do you have the SN of the white one?

Bob McCarty wrote:Doug, In the second picture- to tighten that, you remove a cotter pin on the castellated nut on the bottom of the steering shaft. Then you can tighten the nut to remove the play. If that doesn't fix the problem, the thrust washer and/or bushing are probably worn out. The weights are held on by carriage bolts. The wheel center to rim are a fine thread, square head bolt unless the rims were replaced with round loop rims. The letters on the light switch are low charge, high charge, dim headlight, and bright headlight (although bright is an exaggeration). My eyesight must be bad, I can't see the battery box on the red Cub . The white Cub is missing the battery box top and front. Do you know what a Demonstrator Cub is?

Bob

Thanks for the info on the steering box, I'll try that and hopefully it works.
Thanks for all the other info too.