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This isn't going to help with the problem at hand, but if the pressure plate is from a good source and the disc isn't wore too bad, you should never have to set the fingers on installation. I think in nearly 40 years of making a living as a mechanic it was only once or twice I had to adjust the fingers on assembly. Free play yes, nearly every time, but not the fingers.
Mark "birddog" Birdeau
Well I have had to adjust every cub pressure plate that I have put in. And I have install several IH plates too.There is somewhat of a difference in tractor plates and automotive unites.
I have had to adjust 25 or 30 that other mechanics put it too
I've had to adjust all that I've put into cubs, too. Ed
50 ,52,53,56,59 F Cubs, 55,55,57,63,63 fast hitch, 64 lo-boys, 71 154, 184 lo-boy,61 cadet original. IH spreader,IH corn grinder, Oli. OC3 ,AC D10 ,IH 444 , Potato digger, wagner ldr 3 power units.
Last night I adjusted the fingers a little farther out, a generous 1-1/4"...and it was no help, so I took them the other way, this time more in the neighborhood of 1-1/16". I kept adjusting the free play and throwout bearing clearance and finally arrived at a combination that allowed the tractor to go in gear with still considerable grinding that I refuse to accept. I noticed once I had it in gear and push the clutch I trammed it forward, pushed in on the clutch it was wanting to drift...as if the pilot shaft was still spinning. So I switched Otis off, engaged the PTO and started it back up. The belt pulley of course of turning when I let out on the clutch, when I pushed in on the clutch it continued to turn, but was stopped with a little resistance from a 4x4 block of wood. That told me the pilot shaft was still turning.
I adjusted the clutch pedal yet again...now the %&*^ yoke is hitting the tops of the adjustment screws, which I've had happen once or twice during the last couple days. At 10:30 last night I lit a cigar and called it a night...
I think all the excess grease I had on the bearing...I had a lot of it, and on the pilot shaft itself has found it's way to the end of the shaft and the grease is allowing the shaft to drag in the pilot bearing. So tonight I'm gonna jack the hind end of the tractor as high as I can get it, tape together a couple of red straws and rinse that whole pilot bearing and shaft area with a can or two of brake cleaner and try to get rid of that excess grease. Then start fresh with the throwout bearing clearance and pedal adjustment.
Maybe tonight...we shall see. Thank you all for your thoughts and input.
Member IHCC Chapter 37 & 42 - North Carolina
My current thought is to split the tractor, again. Remove the pressure plate. Wash the copper plate out of the pilot bushing. Then lubricate the pilot bushing with quality oil or grease.
The pilot bushing has to be lubricated, just cleaning out the copper plate or other lubricant with brake cleaner won't necessarily improve things.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I think your new clutch and pressure plate needs some "break-in" time before final adjustment.
A little bit of hill climbing in first gear and clutch feathering it should burn off the high ridges pretty quickly. (Be very careful while rolling back down the hill) After the high spots are gone (10-15 minutes of work) then go back and readjust the clutch.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH Model 15 Tiller
I told my neighbor, if my brain fart don't pan out tonight, I'll probably start over and split it. I can have it stripped down and apart in probably an hour if it comes to it...
I've had guys tell me before "they all grind"...I refuse to accept that...
Member IHCC Chapter 37 & 42 - North Carolina
If you truely put anti-seize on the pilot bearing then you have to remove that stuff. It is not grease and will ruin the pilot bearing. You need to split and clean that bearing anyway, spraying with carb cleaner will not get into that area.
That aside, before you split the tractor, look at the clutch through the hole and see if the disc moves and can be turned when the pedal is pushed, see what is hitting the fingers, etc..
If you have replaced the fork, make sure the throwout bearing pins are tight in the new fork, make sure the fork is centered side to side and vertical on the input shaft. If the clutch disc is loose with the pedal down then the adjustment is not the problem, something else is causing the binding.
Once split, then you can see the rub marks on the throwout bearing and try to determine what is rubbing and where.
I often jump from solution to solution to try to solve a problem but often end up just starting at the beginning, going back to basics.
Split the tractor, go back to basics and something will be obvious as to the cause of the binding and grinding.
All right, adjust the fingers to 1 1/4 inch, they need to be 1/1/4 inch for best results and grease the pilot bushing [ not bearing ] after you get it cleaned up. There is no break in time with a new clutch. And it should not grind. I will not steer you wrong!
I ain't no mechanic .. but I have been around the finger issue a bit. I agree with Boss. The fingers must be at 1-1/4" from the face, free play must be 1" and there should be zero grinding and I have never heard of a wear in period on a clutch. Suggest you read this : How To Adjust Clutch Fingers. I hope this helps a bit.
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