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Couple of thoughts.
1) Set the front of the bed back a bit further so that the tongue can be raised just past vertical. Save quite a bit of space when wagon is in storage.
2) Build removable bench seats horizontal to the length of the wagon bed. Bench seats snap over the wagon's sides and then the removable side rack snaps down over the wagon side. This will do two things, side racks will provide a bit of safety for passengers and seats will stabilize the wagon sides.
I have an excuse. CRS.
with a simple grid to work from that's all you really need.
drag this to your desktop, print out a couple of times and start sketching. consider each little square
to be 3", 4 squares = 12".
for example a 2 x 6 would be 1/2 a block high and 2 blocks wide; a 4 x 4 a squeak taller and
wider than one block if you were overly fussy. 4' x 8' sheet of ply would be 16 blocks by 32 blocks.
to sketch your wheels try different sized coins or bottle caps until you find something close...
an 18" diameter wheel would be 6 blocks wide and 6 blocks high. 24" dia 8 blocks x 8 blocks, etc.
use a sheet for each elevation...front/back, side, top (plan view). start by drawing to scale the
chassis you've settled on using the mfg dimensions (some will have dimensioned drawings to
work from) and overlay your superstructure.
working your design to scale will help you think through fabrication as well as allow you to
figure materials you'll need almost down to the last nut and bolt.
I've fixed electrical problems with a hammer
Thanks Frederick...I will give this a try tonight and see what happens. If i make it work and come up with somethig more accurate...I will post it up and let you see what I have.
Thanks...I looked around and couldn't find any grid paper...this worked fine...as far as I can judge...The top view is still a mystery, as I am not sure what planking will work best. I do not want to use flooring or plywood. I think the planking will look better. But the scale is fairly accurate i think. It is based on the wheels being about 18 inches high. AS far as the length of the wheelbase, I cannot judge if the 72 inches on the Kory website is 72" from front of front wheel to back of back wheel or from axle to axle. Chris, from Kory, is checking on it and will get back to me. I penciled in the wheels at both locations. AS far as moving the whole bed back so I can raise the tongue...I am not too worried about that, as the trailer will be kept in my back yard, where there is plenty of space. I am a bigger fan of symmetry
Also...these drawings are based on the 18" wheel height and a 2" X 10" high stringer. I do not want the frame sitting to low and close to the wheels.
By definition, wheelbase is the distance between the centers of the axles. If you add side rails, make sure they are high enough to keep someone from falling out, not short enough to ensure that when they do fall out they land on their head.
I am further going to muddy the mix. Mind you this option isn't for everyone as needs may vary, but the idea is useful to my mind. I see you are going to do a fair amount of the fabrication, not sure what your skill sets are but .. building a trailer is a pretty straightforward task and not difficult if you take your time. When I needed a new Log Wagon to haul my 4 foot firewood out of the bush, I was kinda bereft of extra coin so I had to do things on a shoestring budget. Course, that is usually the way I do things ... and even though I have an improved budget, I still tend to do things using reclaimed, recycled, reusable materials that fit the project needs. Remember that I am not a mechanic or a mechanical draughtsman, I is a cabinet maker .. So if I can do this, so can anyone else who is a tad handy.
My Log Wagon is easily adaptable to a wagon that you need. Instead of the taller posts, make a bed that rests on the structural beams and add seats to it as well as sides as pictured in your sketch above. Nice thing about this design is that the hitch and tongue are the same height as the Cub's drawbar which makes for a better and safer pull. I think I have all of around $100.00 in it. The tires are off of snow blowers and other yard equipment, the 4x4's are not expensive .. about $0.35/foot, and the steel I had laying around. All that is in the narrative.
Granted there is no tie rods or drag links to make steering real smooth, but it is just a trailer after all and doesn't need all them thar bells and whistles. I have placed some sheet goods on the bed and my kids and their friends enjoyed a hay ride. At the speeds that a Cub travels the finer things are not needed. This could end up being far easier on the budget. The wood is mostly pressure treat finished with some of Mr. Irving's finest SAE10W30wt that I had hanging around. For a people mover I would use a good Water Seal like Thompson's or such. This wagon was built 11 years ago and it is still in top notch shape, a couple additional coats of Mr. Irving's Finest keeps it in good shape. I try not to leave it out doors, but ..... no matter how big you build a barn, it simply is never big enough
Now if you really want to buy one, then I would be leaning toward this one, mostly because of the look. It fits a Cub and a Hayride image to me:
Most of them are really over sized for a Cub. The one that would qualify and one that I have looked at very closely at my local Princess Auto is the identical one that Jim identified at Northern Tool.
Thanks for that. I had contacted the gentleman from Nu-Trail and he was going to send me some pictures. But I am pretty set now on going with the Kory gear and building something like a few people have had. I do not know yet about the decking...PT 1" x 8" or 10" . AS I mentioend earlier...My time to work is limited, so I do not make my wife too upset with me, but I will eb doing it in stages...Frame and Cross members bolted, then wrapping and decking screwed and bolted...last thing will be sides. IF things go smoothly, which is a rare occurance, I will try to get all pressure treated lumber assembled and bolted on the same day so that is ends up blted in place to minimize shrinkage and warping. But last thing will be guards. My poor cub won't even be ready til November. I have a local guy helping me restore it to show condition. Ideally it will be a very nice match...ideally...
Thanks for the input!
I figured that about the wheelbase, that is why my drawing has it set up that way...But I just wasn't completely sure. As far as the guard rail height, I am thinking it will be about 20 inches high or so. People will eb seated when I am going and to get in and out, I will remove the rear gate.
I am not sure about the hieght though...I mean, I can make it so high and look ridiculous...but no rail is unreasonable. There are many that I have seen with no to medium height rails...but none of them are so high so that nobodly could fall out.
Has anyone made their decking out of Trex, or any other composite? It would alleviate warping, tiwisting and splinters...
In case anybody is still following...I decided to go with the Kory 3000 runnign gear. Chris was very helpful at Kory and I should have it in about one and a half weeks. I will take pictures of the entire progress from bare runnign gear to finished product in case anybody is curious as to what I did and how. I hope she comes out well!
If you decide to go with the Pioneer wagon or want someone to look at it firsthand, I live near their manufacturing facility, and would be happy to have a look at it for you.
Sounds like an interesting project and yes of course please cause you know
I think I am missing something here. The four-wheel wagons pictured seem to have solid axles secured to a solid frame. That's OK for totally flat ground, but what happens when you go over ruts or uneven ground? Won't a wheel become airborne? I thought the front axle should be pivoted in the center so all four wheels are always touching the ground. Just curious. Al D
Maud - 1947 Cub #4364
Everything's better with Golden Retrievers, an old Ford V8 and a Cub!
From the 2013 Pioneer Equipment, Inc. catalog, I learned the following:
-The Pioneer wagon has an oscillating coupling pole which effectively fills the role of the pivoting front bolster.
-In addition, available as an option, are coil bolster springs on all four corners.
-Available in one of three weight ranges from 500 lbs. minimum to 4400 lbs. maximum.
Do I like their equipment? You betcha! In the interest of full disclosure, I do not have any financial interest in Pioneer Equipment, Inc. (I'm not a bewhiskered Amishman, although I wear a pair of Amish made suspenders. )
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
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