Farmall Cub

I chose not to go the Pioneer route. They were far too expensive. They seemed to be well made and beautiful wagons, but just too much. I bought the running gear and am going to build my own. I have learned a lot on the various threads and forums and can be fairly handy with circular saw and tape measure! I am planning on making the wagon look like a large scale version of a Radio Flyer ATW wooden frame wagon...so you get an idea.

AS far as torque and twisted...I think I am first going to bolt all four corners and see how she rides. If it seems rigid and rough, I will remove the carriage bolts from the FR and LR and replace them with cables, so the stringers can flex. I can always put the bolts back in out take them back out...the good thing about bolts!

My plans are going to be a little overkill, I am sure...it will add 100-150 pounds or so. I can live with that for the knowing of it being very solid. Again....all bolted and screwed together...can always remove and replace!

As I mentioned before, I will take pictures from bare frame to finish (if it comes out as nice as I'd like), to assist anybody that is considering doing this on their own. WOn't be another couple weeks or so though, as I was delayed getting off the rig an extra 4 days.

I don't think I would bolt down all four corners. Something has to be able to give over uneven terrain. When I worked for a company building feed bodies for trucks, we bolted down at the back of the body to the frame, then used a sliding mount on the front, so it could move up and down as the truck frame twisted, but could not go sideways. Also, dads hay racks were fastened at the rear, and floated between the upright pieces on the frame in the front. Just my opinion.

I am not quite sure I can picture what you are explaining. But, after looking around the various threads and talking to one guy on my rig, who is a farmer when at home...The cross patter seems to be a good way to go. Bolting Front Right (or left) and Left rear(or right). This will allow the traielr to twist, which would be the majority of trailer movement. AS i said though, I think I want to try bolting all four corners first...as 99 percent of my use is on paved roads: hayrides through our neigborhood or just going out for evening rides with the family. This is all nicely paved roads. Virtually no offroading...but, I will look at it and I will always be able to take two bolts out to allow for trailer motion.

Oh, and for the corners not bolted, it would jstu be cables with a turnbuckle to secure them.

Here is a quick drawing to show what I was trying to say. If you bolt through the stringer at the back and let the front float it will be a lot easier on the box. Bolting opposite front and back sides will work if it flexes one way, but the other way it will put a lot of strain on the box. Could tear up something. The front could have cables wrapped around them loose enough to let them lift some but not come out of the bolster uprights. Hope this helps.