Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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I have started another thread to help me decide on how I should go about buying/building a wagon for my cub. I am down to buying a running gear and building my own. On one end of my price spectrum are the wagons from Kory or EZ Trail. Shipped to my door they would be close to 1000.00. On the other end or the gears from places like Agri-Supply and Northern Tool, which would be less than 200 plus freight/shipping. I am a firm believer in buying the best and take care of it. But...is there any REAL difference between the cheap ones here and the more expensive ones?
Typically, you get what you pay for. And, the cheap often turns out to be expensive.
Your best bet is to attend farm auctions or farm machinery consignment auctions. You can buy a used, genuine farm sturdy set of running gears for less money. Depending on what you buy, the rack or box/wagon will be attached.
I installed new 5/4" wood in my two wheeled farm trailer for around $200-. I made a wood bench type seat that snaps on over the side boards. I have hauled 4 adults and 2 kids in the trailer towed by my Cub. The trailer was not built for parades, farm usage.
My opinion. Go for utilitarian. You can always dress up (cover) the sides of a trailer or wagon for parades.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Thanks for the thoughts. Unfortunately, I work offshore and my time to run around and check out auctions, although very tempting, is limited. This is why I am looking at buying the running gear and building it at my home. My time away from the house will be limited to the lumber yard and hardware store. That is why I am trying to decide between the more or less expenisive running gears. But, basically, you ahve answered my questions...you get what you pay for. To me that means...buy the better running gear, grease it and maintain it properly and it should las a very long time.
I differ a bit on this. I'm a "review" junkie. The northern system has excellent reviews and people comment on how they were expecting a mediocre set up but were pleasantly surprised by the quality. The most expensive is not necessarily the best deal. Consumer Reports will certainly echo that thought. The seller of the less expensive (don't want to say 'cheaper') unit may have a better relationship with the manufacturer and profits from volume, not just the quality of each sale. I also like having more money in my pocket whilst knowing I got a good deal so intend to shop around a bit. I look through places like ebates and retailmenot for coupons. In fact I just checked ebates and they have several offers at northern including 3% cash back!
If the northern unit is the size you're looking for, I suggest you save your money and take advantage of it. According to the reviews, you're buying a quality item for 1/3rd the cost. If you ask me, I'd be super satisfied with that.
She thinks my tractor's sexy...
As the person that (in the other thread http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80464&p=643986) pointed out the one at Northern, I can add some more about it but don't have time right now to add a whole lot. I bought one based on having briefly looked at one in a store several years ago. My experience at Northern is that they generally don't sell stuff that is strictly junk. I don't intend to use it heavily and thought it was worth the risk.
Turns out it is made in Canada. It has some pieces that were sourced somewhere other than North America. It also looks like the Canadians may have sent somebody to China to learn some manufacturing techniques. But seriously, it is pretty well built for the price. I have notes on this without time to look it up right now, but I recall 3 noteworthy flaws all fairly easily remedied.
1) Wheels didn't turn smoothly. Found the bearings not properly seated in the hubs (thus not aligned) and manufacturing trash in the hubs. I knocked the bearings out, cleaned things up and properly installed the bearings.
2) The knuckles (king pins) were fitted into steel tubing that is part of the frame. The tubing was welded seam with rough weld inside where the knuckle fits (loosely). I ran a drill in the tubes to knock off the worst of the weld then inserted shim stock to serve as a bearing and tighten up the fit.
3) No Ackerman in the steering geometry, cheap tie rod design and didn't turn very sharply. This took a lot of engineering but was a very simple modification. I added a plate to the center steering arm and made new tie rods. It now steers properly and turns much shorter.
The bottom line, a lot of people would use it as delivered and be happy with it. I think my mods made it work better and last longer. It didn't cost very much to make the mods.
This picture shows the plate I added to the center steering arm and the new tie rods. The plate is bolted to the original center tie rod holes.
Amish, Mennonite in your area. They will build a quality wagon or trailer to your specifications.
Living in central Missouri, there is a trailer manufacturer or sales location in just about every town and at the intersection of two highways.
Another thought. Check the free for sales fliers available in grocery store, gas stations, auto parts stores.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I was so impressed with your mods that I looked into this wagon a little more .
I found this same model being sold on Amazon (by Northern Tool). There are two reviews and one says "steel on steel" i.e. no bearings. Perhaps these have been cheapified somewhat now?
The glass is half full
the upper portion is wasted material
the content is delicious, cold and refreshing!
The review that mentions steel-on-steel is dated 2004, long before I bought mine. If there has been a change, it was to add ball bearing wheels. The steel-on-steel I encountered is all in the steering, some of which was pretty poor. I think the changes I made fix the problems and make it reasonably durable.
I looked into this very thing (building a wagon sized right for a cub), and narrowed it to the same 2 you did.
Mine would be for farm use (hauling wood, hay, etc) and I decided the EZ trail would suit me best.
There's a serious difference between these 2 and the northern gears, but it all depends on what you're using them for.
I didn't end up building one yet, as I've got access to several full size flat racks less than a 1/4 mi away and couldn't justify the time and effort.
I spoke with Abe at EZ Trail and he's a super nice guy too.
I have decided to go with the Kory 3000 model without the additional metal bed. I felt confident in the construction, whereas I still had a little doubt about the NT model, edspite the good reviews some people on here have given it. Chris at Kory was more than helpful too and was able to get it shipped to me with a 1 7/8 hitch modification for under 1K.
I was delayed gettign off my rig an extra 4 days, so I won't be getting to work on it for another week and a half though
But, I will document my building of it wth many pictures from bare frame to finish, so it can help anyone else that is interested in this.
My '49 Cub is getting fully restored by a local guy who does them for people all over the east coast and will not be done until Mid-november...so, I am goingto take this time I am home to build my wagon to my liking. When I get home next time, then the tractor will be done and hopefull they will be a ncie combination. I wil be sure to take pitures of the pair as well!
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
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