Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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For what is worth,I'm not a tire expert, but I've seen a lot of people read the bead seating pressure on a tire and think thats the inflation pressure. The two are usually different.
Jim is absolutely correct. The warning on the tire tells you the maximum pressure that tire can safely hold. But it is the vehicle placard (or manual) that tells you where to run the tire pressure for that vehicle. Always run your tires where the vehicle manufacturer recommends, the tire maker has no idea what vehicle or load you will be using his tire on. I work for a tire manufacturer, please read the vehicle instructions and save us all some heartache.
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
I know Rick and I know who he works for. I would follow his advice anytime it was offered.
Sea salt is healthier only because it gets stuck in the holes of the shaker and you can't actually put it on your food.
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I suggest you go to the Safety Forum and take the Safety Course...Its the first thing listed on the forum...
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Well if it's any consolation I did reduce my pressure to 18 yesterday regardless of what the BKT info says. There's obviously a discrepancy between the data in the Cub manual and manufacturers recommendations. Sorry guys. It's not easy to doubt the mechanics at a tractor dealership, but sure seems they were wrong on this one.
She thinks my tractor's sexy...
I googled "tire pressure sidewall door" and every listed page I looked at had an explanation of pressure recommendations that, in varying amounts of detail, agreed with what this thread says. Here is one of them, straight from Michelin.
So, the operators manual 12-20-1955 on page 61 lists tire pressure as:
front = 28 psi
rear = 12 psi (16 psi when plowing, and a non-specified increase in rear tire pressure when added rear wheel weight, or rear implements are in place).
Getting back to the original question, here is my take on using small farm tractors for bigger and bigger jobs. The Cub was specifically designed to replace a mule so I limit towing to something a mule could easily handle. If you're doubtful of a mule's ability to do the task, there are bigger machines better suited for the job.
When performing a task, the maximum capacity of any machine can not be measured until catastrophic failures occur. Make every effort to avoid becoming part of that yardstick. Please use common sense when using machinery, I've been to enough funerals lately.
"Chance favors the prepared mind."
- Louis Pasteur
"In character, in manners, in style, in all things, the supreme excellence is simplicity."
- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
Thanks for the replies.... a little off topic on the tire info (I hope everyone is clear on that now, though). For my very limited towing use, it'd only move the boats and 1951 IHC L112 around a flat yard. The heaviest is a 9k# triple axle trailer (200# tongue). I can't imagine using a Cub on a ramp... band brakes can't do much for stopping/parking on an incline.
For the most part I'm looking at a 1 to 1 1/2 acre garden, and figure the Cub would be a good fit (plus It'd be fun to keep it in the same IHC family)
Good advice, except I always heard it was intended to replace a team. either way, it is a good way to judge whet you can reasonably tow/pull/stop with it.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
And that is the crux of the matter. The Cub is perfect for that job as it is what it was specifically designed for.
Would suggest you may want to spend a little time, grab a cuppa and read the info contained in the links below. We have lots and lots of information available to our members.
Good suggestion from Pickerandsinger to take the safety course!
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