In-Frame Engine rebuild

Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.

Moderator: Team Cub

Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.

In-Frame Engine rebuild

Postby pferguson1962 » Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:15 pm

I have a early '48 Cub with low compression and is very difficult to start & keep running. I have seen some in-frame rebuild kits and wanted to know if anyone has some experience or advice with an in-frame rebuild kit. My thoughts are to do a valve job and an in-frame kit that will include new rings & pistons that will increase my compression.
I'm not really interested in doing an overhaul and complete restoration just yet. I would like to get it running and enjoy it for a while before going that far.

Any thoughts or suggestions before going down this path would be greatly appreciated.
pferguson1962
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:04 pm
Zip Code: 76513

Re: In-Frame Engine rebuild

Postby Eugene » Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:21 pm

I would pull the engine and put on a stand or the bench. Much easier to access the engine for measurements.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Eugene
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
 
Posts: 12502
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
Location: Mo. Linn
Zip Code: 65051
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: In-Frame Engine rebuild

Postby Smokeycub » Wed Oct 09, 2013 10:52 am

I agree with Eugene but I also understand not wanting to tear the tractor apart. I've done what you are suggesting and it's very do-able. Two other drawbacks are you can't change the front or rear main seals. The front seal requires taking off the front end of the tractor (and a special puller for the front pulley) and the rear seal, a split at the bell housing. Mic'ing and plasti-gauging require crawling around under the tractor and FWIW the rear bolts on the oil pan are no picnic to re-install. If you find the cylinder bores are too far out of spec you'll need to take the engine out anyway, I got lucky. I replaced the front seal on mine as it was leaking pretty badly but not the rear, it wasn't leaking (and still isn't :{_}: ). On the plus side ol' Smokey is running real well now, maybe a bit stronger than before, good oil pressure, and no more blue smoke!
Ray
Smokeycub
Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail
Smokeycub
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 595
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:47 am
Location: Ravenna, Ohio
Zip Code: 44266
Tractors Owned: 49 F Cub
65 Cub Cadet 104
70 450C JD
67 Cub Cadet 107
90 B7100HST-D Kubota
72 Cub Cadet 149
54 Super C
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: In-Frame Engine rebuild

Postby bythepond88 » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:47 am

Unless you have the tools and knowledge to mic it out, I agree with Eugene that you are better off pulling the block, and would add that you should take it to a machine shop to have it measured and see where you are. Not much sense in replacing pistons and rings unless you know whether or not you need to go oversize.

When I did the engine on my 59, everything was within specs. If I had just bought a kit, the pistons would have been wasted money.
Michael Cummings
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
bythepond88
5+ Years
5+ Years
 
Posts: 1230
Joined: Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:54 pm
Location: IL, Wadsworth
Zip Code: 60083
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: In-Frame Engine rebuild

Postby Eugene » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:56 am

pferguson1962 wrote:I have seen some in-frame rebuild kits.
Engine block is not sleeved. Do not purchase a kit until the engine has been measured to determine needed machine work and parts.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Eugene
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
 
Posts: 12502
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
Location: Mo. Linn
Zip Code: 65051
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: In-Frame Engine rebuild

Postby PVF1799 » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:58 am

The most important thing I learned on this forum since I started the restoration of Rex '48 is to follow the recommendations from the members of this forum. Each and every time I've departed from this - I'd wished I had not. Having done in-frame rebuilds with my father and brother as a youth it's just much easier to have it on a stand as recommended herein. Also, by sending it out it will be boiled out and clean inside and out for better performance and painting.

Ken
Ken
Pleasant View Farm - Est. 1799
My Restoration Project - FCUB '48 - Rex
User avatar
PVF1799
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 1097
Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:46 pm
Location: Altamont, NY
Zip Code: 12009
Skype Name: ken.r.rau
Tractors Owned: 1929 Farmall Regular (Original Owner)
1947 Farmall H #265658X1
1948 Farmall Cub #21005
1955 Farmall Cub #190769
1961 Cub Cadet #16509
1975 Cub Cadet 1250H
197x IH 990 Haybine
1994 JD 5320 Diesel
Attachments: Woods 42F Fast Hitch, L38 Disc Fast Hitch, F11 Plow Fast Hitch, Land Plow, Snow Plow, Grader Blade, Planter w/Fertilizer, Cultivators, Hilling Disks, Sickle Bar Mower(2), IH 7' Sickle Bar Mower, Flail Mower and 5' International Belly Mower.
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: In-Frame Engine rebuild

Postby Fireman Bob » Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:05 pm

Definitely recommend pulling it even though I agree its a lot more work.
I was a diesel and heavy equipment mechanic for 15 years and the partial rebuilds didnt work out well too many times.
While occasionaly you can get away with a ring job to "get by" usually by the time the rings have worn down you will have critical dimensions wrong such as cylinder taper,out of round, scoring and a top cylinder ridge that can break your new rings/piston if not removed.
Also without a proper cylinder crosshatch your new rings may not seat in causing a lot of the problems you now have.
Add to this not being able to clean/hot tank the block well and not being able to repalace oil seals that may fail soon.
If done right the first time you will have a solid base to build and restore the rest of the Cub.
Good luck and enjoy the time spent on this fun hobby :)
Fireman Bob
 
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:34 am
Zip Code: 97123

Re: In-Frame Engine rebuild

Postby ricky racer » Mon Oct 14, 2013 6:01 am

Fireman Bob wrote:Definitely recommend pulling it even though I agree its a lot more work.
I was a diesel and heavy equipment mechanic for 15 years and the partial rebuilds didnt work out well too many times.
While occasionaly you can get away with a ring job to "get by" usually by the time the rings have worn down you will have critical dimensions wrong such as cylinder taper,out of round, scoring and a top cylinder ridge that can break your new rings/piston if not removed.
Also without a proper cylinder crosshatch your new rings may not seat in causing a lot of the problems you now have.
Add to this not being able to clean/hot tank the block well and not being able to repalace oil seals that may fail soon.
If done right the first time you will have a solid base to build and restore the rest of the Cub.
Good luck and enjoy the time spent on this fun hobby :)


:Dito:

I could not agree more!!!
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
User avatar
ricky racer
5+ Years
5+ Years
 
Posts: 2795
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Zip Code: 49120
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y


Return to Farmall Cub

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: bythepond88, iosco cub, Jim Becker, jpcubs, Lurker Carl, michael, raystractors, Smokeycub, Trent M and 3 guests