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13 posts • Page 1 of 1
I took the generator to the shop, they took it apart to check it, put on the machine , ran good said it was trying to charge. It will be later before i can work on it. They were wondering about the ammeter. I have a new one for a ford tractor. Would they be the same (6 volt)?
Should work. Some, but not all, newer amp gauges are voltage and polarity sensitive.
Before you change out the amp gauge. Check battery voltage before starting engine and again with engine running at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. If system is charging you should see an improvement of around 1-1/2 volts across the battery terminals and a deflection on the amp gauge needle.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Ammeters are not voltage sensitive, doesn't matter if you put it on a 12v or 6v tractor. They are sensitive to current, not voltage. All meter movement ammeters used on tractors are polarity sensitive, you have to connect the leads to give you an upscale reading when the system is charging. If your reading is backwards, swap the leads on the ammeter. One way for an ammeter to fail is "open" which would give you no meter movement and would prevent the battery from being charged.
Thanks for the status report. I am anxious to hear what the results are once the generator is reinstalled. Did the folks who you had disassemble the generator indicate whether they found anything amiss inside?
I put my generator back on after polishing up any metal to metal areas. I put new wire connectors on. I put my new voltage regulator on after verifying the wires to the ammeter. I polorized the gen. and started the cub. it is charging good. The first generator they checked was good. That's the one I put on. The second had a bad bearing and the A post plastic was cracked. They fixed both so it is good to go if needed. Thanks to everybody for all your help. This site is better than a book. Bill
glad to hear it is fixed.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
Glad to hear the charging system is back to normal, though I must confess I'm left scratching my head as to where the gremlin(s) was/were that caused the short. One of the great things in receiving after action reports is knowing whether the advice was on or off the track. In some cases, like this one, the problem just seems to be solved with no way of really nailing down the cause. If the armature post insulator was just cracked it may or not have been bad enough to contact the generator body and create the short. Then, again, even when you tried the "good" generator the problem remained. I am curious about the condition of your original (old) regulator, since I am inclined to think that it was the cause or, at least, part of the cause of your problem. Regardless, right now I bet you are just glad to have your Cub up and running again.
I wonder how Xperimental is doing with his generator problem. He commented earlier in 'issue 2' that he was having a similar generator problem. It would be neat to hear that our discussions in this string assisted him in also solving his problem.
The original generator is back on. The back-up generator is the one with a bad bearing and broken pole insulator. I jumped a hot and ground off the battery to the ammeter to see if it would show a charge and it did. Then I unhooked the bat. wire from the VR and from the ammeter to see if it was the right one then hooked it back up. Now it is charging so far so I can take the mower off and put the blade on. Thanks. Bill
I haven't solved the charging problems on my 61 Cub yet. I suspect that the generator is also the problem on my tractor. I am looking for a shop in this part of Indiana that can test and repair the generator. If anyone knows of a good shop, please let me know. I have another generator that would fit if I change the pulley and I may try that first.
I also am considering using an alternator and converting the system to 12 volt. This may be the most cost effective way to handle the problem.
Inquire at your local auto parts store. They will know who repairs generators and starters. Actually, you may be able to inexpensively repair your generator yourself. Typically replace the bushing, bearing, clean up the commutator, and replace brushes. Parts are available from most auto parts stores.
The initial conversion is usually a trade off on repairing the generator and purchasing a regulator. The 12 volt alternator is less problematic and if a replacement is required, cheaper.
I'm a conversion fan for working tractors. However, some folks want to keep their tractors "original".
I have an excuse. CRS.
You can certainly take the generator off and bring it to a shop, but if you possess basic mechanical skills, you should not feel intimadated and discouraged from working on the generator. It is not like a fine watch that you separate the two sides on and dozens of tiny parts suddenly fall out all over the workbench. There is plenty of step by step help available from members on this forum if you should choose to tackle the job yourself. You can begin by testing the generator output without taking it off the tractor by disconnecting the two wires on the generator and performing the output test that was discussed earlier in this three part string.
13 posts • Page 1 of 1
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