Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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I have drilled and tapped farm trailer rims for zerks. This puts the grease in and fills the center of the rim between the bearings. After center of rim is full of grease, any additional grease is forced into the bearings.
Back to the question, don't see why you couldn't do it.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I have done it to my 48. Cap is plenty thick enough to tap but it's overkill for my trailer queen
Ken, Annie the '48 Cub & 1282 Cub Cadet.
I think we gotter if'n she don't kick, Andy Griffith.
If it is a working tractor, the fitting sticking out of the cap could get damaged, plugged with dirt, etc. Some of them had a grease fitting in the hub itself, though that requires more work to install since you would need to remove the hub and clean the grease out to make sure no cuttings ended up in there.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
I completely agree with the end result you seek. But gun grease is typically very different from wheel bearing grease. The gun grease applied with some frequency may work well enough since this is for a low speed application. If you decide to try it, why not buy spare bearing caps in advance in case the attempt does not go well. That would limit the down time for the tractor.
If I was going to do it, I might build up a mound of brazing, drill and tap the hole there for longer threads.
Luck favors those who are prepared
I grease the bearings on my pontoon trailer with a grease gun and red wheel bearing grease. You can buy a small grease gun and grease tubes from Walmart in the auto center. I keep one in my boat box.
PS. I have Bearing Buddies in my trailer wheels that works somewhat like you are doing.
The only thing negitive that I see that might happen is the oil seal may blow out of the hub. You'll never know when you have enough grease in the hub to lube the rear bearing until you see it coming out the rear of the hub. I don't remember if the seal is lip out or lip in on the hub. If it is lip in, it will blow the lip out to allow the grease to escape which will ruin the seal. If it is lip out, no problem grease will simply push past the seal indicating the hub is full of grease. Just something to think about.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
Just a thought.... I repack the front wheel bearings of every Cub I have owned. The only ones that have ever been bad were apparently either submerged or had a bad seal (allowing water in).
There is a big difference between trailer bearings and a Cub. Think tiny tires at highway speeds with cheap bearings and seals vs pretty heavy duty Timken bearings at slow rotation.
The bearings on a 49 and 50 Cub (both heavily used) were perfect and the two I replaced were on a 71 and 77. One had a bad seal and the other apparently sat in a puddle for a time.
You do want to leave room for heat expansion, so never completely fill the hub with grease.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
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