Farmall Cub

The restoration of my '53 Cub is progressing slowly and I am ready to start tearing down the engine. I have twice rented the bearing splitter and puller to remove the crankshaft pulley and twice failed (method #2). I'm ready to try the preferred method and would like to know where to beg, borrow or buy the rig for this method? I have a 12T jack. I don't plan on needing the tool a second time!

This is a great website/forum and I don't think that there are many situations or problems with a Cub that haven't been discussed here. It is extremely helpful to an old retired submarine commander that hasn't restored a tractor before - only a '57 TR3.

TSB did you try this link
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... index.html

If Tafton, PA is correct for your location, you may find someone close enough to borrow one from. There are lots of members in PA, NY, and east of you.

Bob

Tafton (Northeast PA ) is correct. It would be great if I could borrow or rent one.

There is someone on the forum who is or was getting the puller kits made, if not, a welding shop can make one that works very well. The pictures below will give you a good idea, The thing you cannot see in them is you need a grade 8 or so bolt to insert in the center hole so the jack can push against the crankshaft. The plate behind the pulley is made from 1/2 inch material, and I used 3/4 inch threaded rods, but they were what I had on hand, they do not need to be that heavy. I decided to build this one after I broke a 5 ton gear puller trying to remove a pulley, and it worked so well others have made a few also.

Check out this thread.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34545

Bill Poor is no longer a member of this forum, but Earl Fauble still is. His user name is "Earl". PM him.

even with the jack method, occasionally you will need to apply heat to the pulley. I suspect that the bearing puller you rented would have worked with heat

Well, I did use heat the second time I tried, but maybe I didn't get it hot enough. I think that maybe the jaws on the rented puller were too long, which allowed the jaws and screw to tip when it got real tight. I was using an impact wrench on the screw. If I can get the jig to use a jack, I'll use heat as well!

I bit the bullet and purchased the kit with jack from Earl Fauble. With a 30 inch extension on the jack handle and heat (maybe not enough?) the pulley would not budge. What am I doing wrong? Can I use a bigger jack without breaking the pulley?

Scot

some are tight, I have a larger jack that I use. I have broke them too though but only 2.
Boss

what are you heating it with? the idea is to heat the pulley quick with an oxy/acetylene torch to create a temperature differential between the crankshaft and the pulley. if you do that with pressure on the jack, it will come off. be prepared for the 'bang' when it moves

FYI. Using an impact gun on a puller will probably cause thread damage and will make the unit pull a little to one side with a combination of heat and vibration. Spray the pulley with a little penetrating oil, put it under tension and tap it lightly with a light hammer a few dozen times. Your trying to vibrate the rust bond and let the penetrating oil get in. Give it some time to sit, then heat the pulley quickly and apply more and more pressure. It may take several repeats for it to final "POP" off. When it does, you'll know it. Be patient and be careful.

TSB, are you sure someone has not screwed a bolt maybe with a wahser into the end of the crankshaft thinking they needed it to hold pulley on?

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:TSB, are you sure someone has not screwed a bolt maybe with a wahser into the end of the crankshaft thinking they needed it to hold pulley on?

That's interesting John, I was thinking the same thing. ...but that would make it tough to thread another bolt into the crank. Maybe it's tack welded - lol I doubt that too. Probably just good and stuck.

BobM wrote: Be patient and be careful.

BobM wrote:Spray the pulley with a little penetrating oil, put it under tension and tap it lightly with a light hammer a few dozen times. Your trying to vibrate the rust bond and let the penetrating oil get in. Give it some time to sit, then heat the pulley quickly and apply more and more pressure. It may take several repeats for it to final "POP" off

I second that. It's a bunch of stress on a 1/2 bolt. The heat (oxy/acetylene) should do the trick.

Smokeycub wrote:That's interesting John, I was thinking the same thing. ...but that would make it tough to thread another bolt into the crank. Maybe it's tack welded - lol I doubt that too. Probably just good and stuck.

I am curious what you mean by "another bolt".

Oops, never mind, I see what you meant.