Crankshaft Pulley

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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby TSB » Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:04 pm

Thanks, guys. I'll use penetrating oil and keep trying. The bolt is bent slightly, so I will need to replace it. I used a propane torch and it was as much pressure as I could put on it.
Scot

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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby artc » Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:19 pm

you actually cannot install a bolt in that hole unless it protruded from the pulley. I've got an engine on the bench now that I just installed the pulley.

penetrating oil will not help here as this is not a rusted part, it is a deliberate interference fit on the part of the design engineers. the shaft and the hole are a .000 or -.001 fit. you HAVE to heat the pulley to 275 degrees to help it on.. and even then it's a challenge with an impact wrench. I'm generally worried about shearing off the 1/2 threaded rod, or stripping the threads in the crank when installing them.

use the jack, pump it tight - then heat it fast all around. don't be timid with the torch. A propane torch will not give you the heat you need fast enough, a torch set is probably required. it will go then! let us know when you win. if you were closer I'd offer you to bring it to my shop
Last edited by artc on Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby artc » Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:24 pm

don't feel bad... it is the most difficult and intimidating job on a cub engine!
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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby RaymondDurban » Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:25 pm

I may catch some slack for saying this, but I've never had to heat a front pulley to get it off or heat one up to put it back on the crankshaft. I've removed and reinstalled crankshaft pulleys for at least two dozen Cubs, and I know thats probably less than some others here, so maybe I've just had beginners luck.

They will most often "pop" quite loud when it first gives, and make you think you broke something, but after that it'll come right off. To reinstall, I apply some anti-sieze on the crankshaft, install the threaded rod also with some anti-sieze on the threads, and use a couple washers with grease between them to act as a thrust bearing in between the plate and the nut. I always use a standard box end wrench with another of similar size hooked to it to act as a cheater to pull the pulley back on the crankshaft. Takes a bit of time going round and round to pull it on, but never had an issue and certainly a lot quieter than an impact.
I also worry about stripping the threads on the rod. I have noticed it warming up, but never too hot to grab ahold of and never ruined any threads.

Here is a pic of one going back on from a DSCF a few years ago. You can see the washers between the plate and nut, and the anti-sieze on the threaded rod. I think I removed and reinstalled 5 during the two days of that fest this same way.
Image

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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby TSB » Wed Mar 05, 2014 10:40 am

Tried again - failed again! Ready to try a larger jack but sure don't want to break the pulley. Earl says his kit isn't made for a larger jack? For Boss, how large a jack do you use? And just curious to know how you get the broken pulley off of the shaft? I don't have a oxy/act outfit and have used a propane torch.
Scot

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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby Dale Finch » Sun Mar 16, 2014 12:12 pm

RaymondDurban wrote:I may catch some slack for saying this, but I've never had to heat a front pulley to get it off or heat one up to put it back on the crankshaft. I've removed and reinstalled crankshaft pulleys for at least two dozen Cubs, and I know thats probably less than some others here, so maybe I've just had beginners luck.

They will most often "pop" quite loud when it first gives, and make you think you broke something, but after that it'll come right off. To reinstall, I apply some anti-sieze on the crankshaft, install the threaded rod also with some anti-sieze on the threads, and use a couple washers with grease between them to act as a thrust bearing in between the plate and the nut. I always use a standard box end wrench with another of similar size hooked to it to act as a cheater to pull the pulley back on the crankshaft. Takes a bit of time going round and round to pull it on, but never had an issue and certainly a lot quieter than an impact.
I also worry about stripping the threads on the rod. I have noticed it warming up, but never too hot to grab ahold of and never ruined any threads.

Here is a pic of one going back on from a DSCF a few years ago. You can see the washers between the plate and nut, and the anti-sieze on the threaded rod. I think I removed and reinstalled 5 during the two days of that fest this same way.
Image


I just reinstalled the front pulley onto my rebuilt engine using this procedure, and it worked BEAUTIFULLY!!!! Absolutely NO problem. Used anti-seize on threaded rod & pulley, lubricated seal and used the "double wrench" setup to screw down the nut, and it went on easily. Also, with the oil pan off, when I THOUGHT I had bottomed out, I was able to confirm this by seeing the rear end of the pulley seated against the gear.

Thank you Raymond, for this post!!! It removed all the anxiety from the procedure! :D

Oh, and for the person trying to decide about the wear sleeve on a pulley, I bought a "wear sleeve kit" from TM Tractors which included the correct seal. I had to have the IH dealer install the sleeve, though, because it did not have a flange on it for installation, and I did not have the tool for it. Just wanted to get it on, so paid the bucks! Don't forget to leave the front cover loose until you get the pulley on, to make sure the seal is centered on the pulley shaft.

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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby Clark Thompson » Sun Mar 16, 2014 2:18 pm

I have been removing the pulley on cubs for 35 years now. I have always used a heavy duity 3 jaw gear puller and a impack gun. Most come off with realative easy but I have had a few that need heated with a cutting torch. now heating with a cutting torch doesnt mean it will come right off. Usually I tighten the puller down as mush as I dare and heat the pulley. I usually have to let it set for up to 10 minutes or so. when I hear a big bang I know its ready then use the impact gun to quickly remove the pulley. I have had 2 pulleys over the years that refused to come off. I ended up cutting them off to find they has been gulded to the crank. Installing the pulley is pretty easy. I clean the surfaces with emery cloth to smooth any scratches or marks in the crank then I do the same to the pulley. I lube the surfaces then heat the pulley to about 300 degrees. Then the pulley will slip on part way with no problem then I use a oak block and a small sledge to drive the pulley home.
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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby TSB » Mon Apr 07, 2014 11:10 am

I finally got back to my project, found a friend with an acetylene outfit, used the Earl Fauble tool with extension and failed again - big time - broke the pulley and bent the tool! I guess the pulley has been on there for sixty years and doesn't want to move. Can someone tell me what the best way is to cut the pulley off without damaging the crankshaft?
Scot

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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby Eugene » Mon Apr 07, 2014 11:54 am

First time I removed the crankshaft pulley, I disassembled the engine. Took the crankshaft, with front engine cover, and pulley to a local tractor dealership. Think it cost me $50-. But I still had all of the parts in good condition.

If you still want to cut off the pulley, make sure you don't ruin the crankshaft or engine front cover.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby Clark Thompson » Mon Apr 07, 2014 1:35 pm

I should mention you can not cut the pulley off with a cutting torch. It is cast iron. what i usually do is brake as much of the pulley off with a good hammer as possible, then I dig the crank seal out. then I use a saws all with hack saw blade to cut the pulley about 90 % through. then take a good hard chizzel with long taper then drive it in the cut. this will usually split what is uncut . falls right off. When cutting, you cut lenght wise with the crankshaft.
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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby Boss Hog » Mon Apr 07, 2014 6:57 pm

I think it is a 10 ton jack
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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby TSB » Wed May 14, 2014 4:50 pm

I doubled the thickness of the plates on the "Fauble" tool and used the 12t ton jack. That did the job. Thanks for all the wisdom of lots of experience.
Scot

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Re: Crankshaft Pulley

Postby RustyKnuckles » Thu May 15, 2014 11:36 am

Congratulations! I was beginning to think you'd need to use dynamite.....
Jay Smith

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Next, replacement of old parts (radiator, seals, etc.) + painting.

Plus 3 JD garden tractors (425,318,140)
& two Buick Roadmaster station wagons


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