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I finally got my engine back from the engine shop with a complete rebuild-(new pistons 0.040 oversize, valves, .010 grind on the crankshaft and everything that goes along with this type of rebuild). The engine cost more than I had planned to spend for everything but that shows what happens to a rookie. When the engine was thoroughly cleaned a crack was discovered in the front crankcase cover as shown in the pictures below. It is between the white lines and hopefully it will show up in the pictures. Engine shop recommended that I use JB Weld since it is in a low stress area and is in an area where oil only splashes. Is this fix likely to work?
Now I have to install the fan drive pulley and oil seal. Since this is my first time for this operation I am trying to determine how to proceed. I have read several forum threads on this subject and decided that I'll use the grade 8 all thread and try to pull it on. I am not clear on the wear sleeve. There is not one currently installed. On the forum I saw at least one post that said new oil seals come sized for a wear sleeve and many come with the wear sleeve. This oil seal came in the rebuild kit that the engine shop used and they gave me the oil seal. How do I determine if I need a wear sleeve?
The crack goes through and into the seal boss, seal retaining area. I would purchase a used front cover.
If you are going the epoxy route, "V" out the entire crack on both sides of the cover then fill and sand smooth. There are some great epoxys out there, select one that is suitable for high temperatures and metal repair.
Wear sleeve. Check the pulley for wear where the seal lip rides on the pulley. If you have significant wear/groove you need the wear sleeve.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I agree with Eugene. Replace the front cover. You may regret fixing the cracked one, but you will never regret replacing it.
MD, Deep Creek Lake
"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
Clownfish, I have a used front engine cover at my farm that I can check out for you. Not sure if its condition. And not sure what one is worth, either! I will let you know what I find, if you want.
I now have a scrap engine with what looks to be a usable front cover. In searching the forum I see a lot of references to the "Special Tool" for removing the fan drive pulley. Where do you get the special tool?
Glenn, Here are links to two different methods for removing the pulley:
Most of the Cubfest hosts (along with others) will have a version of the bottle jack.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
As I get started with reassembly I find that some of the bolts need replacing. How do I determine what grade of bolt to use? I have seen info on the forum about the "Dot head" bolts but cannot find it again.
Service manual, page VI and VII. Dot only with no radial lines indicates a grade 1 or grade 2 bolt.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I have finally started putting the cub back together. I overhauled everything forward of the transmission and replaced the seals in the final drive. Anything else behind the clutch tube will be at a later date. So far everything seems to be going ok. I replaced the cracked crankcase front cover with one from another engine. Although I was a little apprehensive, removing and reinstalling the fan drive pulley was fairly easy using Earl’s puller. I have had a problem with bolts. All of the bolts have been the “Dot Head” bolts with no lines which I understand makes them Grade 1 or 2. The only exception was head bolts and flywheel bolts which were Grade 8. Since the recommended torque for many of the bolts is 2x the allowable for Grade 1 or 2, I have been replacing them with Grade 5 or 8. Finding the length to match the original is difficult for some of the odd lengths such as 1-3/8” or 1-5/8”. I tried to determine if the next larger length would fit and if not I cut the bolts.
My current issue is the bolts connecting the crankcase to the clutch housing. My old bolts are 2 cap screws W/O nuts and 4 bolts with nuts all 7/16”which matches the TC-37A parts catalog. All are Dot Head with no lines. The blue Ribbon Service manual GSS-1008, page 15 shows 1/2” and 3/8” bolts for clutch housing to crankcase with torques of 85 and 35 ft.-lbs. GSS-1411, page 1-12, para.3. gives the torque for bolts at this location as 55 and 35 ft.-lbs which would indicate 2 different size bolts. I am sure that I am making a stupid mistake but I can’t find anything that shows the 7/16” bolts which I have and the recommended torque values do not seem appropriate for my bolts. Can someone tell me which publication has the torque information for my situation with the 7/16” bolts? I could just use the torque for a 7/6” bolt but what grade?
Sorry I can't help on the bolts/torque question but I've got to say congrats on the progress. You're certainally well on the way to a fine cub restoration that you can be proud of and preserving "Dads" tractor. I really like the jackstands and the workshop.
If you go to the PDF Manuals (above), then the "Tractor Parts Manuals" (the last choice), then the "TC 37D Rev 1 12-54" (second to last choice),
then check on page 84 under item #1, you will see 7/16" bolts: two 7/16-14 x 2 (on top without nuts) and four 7/16-14 x 2 5/8 (the rest with nuts and lock washers). The others probably go to the clutch housing-to-transmission attachment.
I just reassembled mine with new Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and lock washers. May not have the dots, but at least I am pretty sure they will hold up for a few more years!! Longer than I, most likely!!! Good luck!
As a Stan in western MO, I concur with Stan in lower AL!! Looks like you're doing a fine job!
My 1945 Farmall H makeover
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