Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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I don't know about all these home remedies for unsticking parts, but after 35 years in the muffler business and trying everything I could to break bolts loose, I found PB Blaster to be the only product that actually chased up the threads. Before that we used heat, but Blaster works relatively quick as a penetrant. It's a terrible lubricant, and possible a corrosive. You also don't want to spay it in your eyes, it burns worse that B-12 and doesn't go away as fast. Better than pepper spray.....
I never tried Kroil, but I may have to try several things.....
I didn't look at this tractor very close because I bought it for scrap price, but I noticed that the head bolts were out, so I yanked the head off, which was loose, and it had a plastic bag under the head. Yes, that's ice in one of the cylinders.
It turned out to be a 1952 by the numbers. The block isn't cracked and the ears aren't broken, and the sheet metal is good. It has hydraulics that appear to work the rear, and then an arm that attaches to the front lift. I don't know if this is the way they came or not? There is no ridge on the top of the cylinder and the pistons appear to be domed, would they be aftermarket pistons? I'm wondering if this has been overhauled before......
Ouch. I would pull the engine and see what the bottom end looks like. Then decide what to do with it.
If the engine is as bad as it appears in the photo, and you can get the pistons and valves unstuck, It will requires extensive machine work and new parts.
You can usually find a good running engine to install in the tractor for much less money than it's going to take to rebuild this engine.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I haven't had time to dig around in the cylinders yet, but I'm not sure those are domes. They could just be rust formation from water dripping through the spark plug holes. All the domed pistons I've seen for cubs are domed on one side. I figure when I take the drain plug out of the oil pan it will be full of water. I'm thinking of draining the oil, cleaning the top of the pistons and then filling the whole thing full of diesel and let it set for a few days. If that doesn't unlock it, then I'll set it on fire......lol
I've got nothing to lose, but I'm too much of a perfectionist to buy a used motor. I'll bore it and do it right. Too bad you can't bore these for sleeves......
It was just as I thought. Those aren't domes but rust. I cleaned off the pistons and checked the crankcase for water and there was none. I poured the whole engine full of diesel till it was running off the top of the block and out of the tank where the radiator bolts. I'll let this set a few days and then go with stronger chemicals.
Jonboy, I know of several cases where guys have sleeved one or two cylinders. Don't know what the cost would be for all four.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
I have sleaved many types of non sleaved engines to repair a crack or a blown out cylinder due to hard water. It usually cost 100 bucks per hole and more depending on size. The engine pictured will require boring to maximum to clean the cylinders up or sleaved. looks to me like the block will have to be decked as well. decking sometimes requires the pistons to be decked for clearence. Probabley will need new valve guides and valves and seats. If it were me I would throw it in the scrap pile.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.
Apparently a bit of fabrication by the previous owner.
Not knowing what the remainder of the tractor looks like and other repairs needed, consider using this tractor as a parts tractor. You can purchase a Cub in good condition for what it will cost to rebuild the engine.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Eugene, they no doubt tried to unlock it, and even removed the head, but then left the head loose with the plugs out. Fortunately, they dragged it in the field instead of on the road, so I'm hoping nothing is bent.....I have found some cubs in my area, but they are all over $2500 running with nothing more than new paint on them. I think I'd rather spend $2500 or more on rebuilding this one and knowing I've got a tractor that should last the rest of my life. I guess if I couldn't do all the work except the machine work, I'd give up now, but I have a friend that is a machinist.
Bob, I'd read somewhere these could be bored .060, and I've always seen sleeved engines needing to be bored .120 to work with a sleeve. I just don't know how many hours these engines can run before rebuild is why I was thinking if someone made sleeves like other tractors have it would be good option. The machine work is no problem. Who knows, It may last longer than me with a good rebuild with quality parts.
Lombard, I've never had to unlock engines like this so I've never tried some of the chemicals you suggested. I've always had race cars that we took apart after about 60 nights of racing and they were clean. The only other exception is when they they exploded.
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