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That engine block looks mighty tough! There are lots of ones around in much better shape, as a starting point for an overhaul.
1953 Cub, acquired fall 2013. Runs much better thanks to tuneup by Art Chester!
Next, replacement of old parts (radiator, seals, etc.) + painting.
Plus 3 JD garden tractors (425,318,140)
& two Buick Roadmaster station wagons
It is kinda crusty isn't it. Actually I scraped around the cylinders and they cleaned right up, and the rust on the valves fell off when I touched them with a screw driver. This thing had a plastic bag between the block between the head and for some reason the rust is loose. I dunno, but after I loosen it up and tear it down, we'll see if it's worth using. Worst case is I'll have a lot of spare parts. I don't see anything pitted except for the exhaust manifold. The head was welded with what looks like nickel rod and they did a great job on it. I like a challenge and I'd like to see this thing come back from the dead, but I've got my eye on a Super C right now that should run with some fresh fuel, so I may just let this little cub sit with chemicals in it for a while.....
I just completed a teardown of an ALLIS CHALMERS D12 engine (4 cyl, 149 cu in) that was stuck to the point that nothing in or on the engine would move. I tried all the before mentioned methods but had to resort to removing the engine from the tractor, removed head and crank, soaked the pistons/cylinders from the bottom to free the rods on the wristpins, then removed the pistons with the help of a BFH and several blocks of hardwood. I cracked one piston in the process. This was all due to the PO allowing water to get into the engine and stand on the pistons. The head and crank are now being machined and the engine will be reassembled with new rod/main bearings, rebuilt head, new rings. The cylinder liners could not be removed so that will come later after I get the tractor running and the remainder checked out. It can be done but be ready to invest lots of time and effort. You might get lucky as I did and have a minimal $$ investment. Good Luck, Stan.
Stan, so I'm assuming the liners were good enough to use for now? That is amazing considering how stuck it was.
I feel lucky. The engine has been sitting full of diesel for a few days now, but the weather has been too cold to mess with it. I'm going to take all the valve train out because I suspect that is where it's locked. Hopefully the block is okay under the valves.
Jonboy: I would have preferred to replace the liners at this point or at least the O-rings, but (1)trying to minimize the initial cost not knowing anything about the rest of the tractor and (2)the liners cleaned up OK but there is some pitted areas mostly at the lower end of the liners, so I guess it was a compromise as to what was acceptable and what I am able to spend $$$ not knowing how much more I might have to put in it to make it servicable so I settled on rebuilding the head, turning the crank .010, new rod and mains to match and new rings. Here's hoping I made the right call!! Stan
I pulled the manifold and side cover off today, and the engine is clean inside. I loosened off the lifters and worked all the valves loose. PB Blaster is magic. The motor is still locked, so it's not in the valve train. Next I will pull off the pan, disconnect the rods and try to drive the pistons down a little and then hone the cylinders and then see if I can drive the pistons out the top. There is NO ridge at all. This must be a low hour tractor or it's been overhauled.
I've never had to unlock an engine like this so I like the challenge. I tried rocking it back and forth in high gear and no luck. I really believe I can save this engine, which would be amazing. I'll still need to lap the valves, and I might still replace the valves to be on the safe side.
I would pull the engine. Flywheel removed. Remove front pulley and engine front cover. Then unbolt and remove the crankshaft.
Block of hard wood in cylinder bore, hydraulic jack chained across top of block, push the pistons out of the block from the top.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Eugene, what you described is my last resort. If the bottom of the motor was dirty that's what I'd do, but I still have hope that I won't have to yank the motor.
Make your'r self a plug from a 3/8 plate steel about .005 smaller then bore place plug in cylinder press on pistion If it moves even a few thousdands it will come out.Best to remove the engine and crankshaft to install block in a press.
I have used auto tranny fuild with great resuilts.
YOU CAN DO IT,YOU CAN DO IT,IF YOU PUT YOUR MINE TO IT !
I had a 1960 cub stuck from sitting. I soaked pistons for weeks and whacked them with a white oak 2x2 and a mallet. Nothing would budge it. I finally mixed atf and diesel then covered the pistols with an inch of this mixture. Light each cylinder on fire and ad motor oil after burning to adjust burn time. Let burn for an hour. Then recover pistons with atf leave overnight. Few whacks next day and she was free. The burning fluid worked itself down as the cylinder expanded from heat.
Vern, I thought of doing that, but I believe these are cast iron pistons and I figured it would break them? They'll probably break anyway if I have to resort to pounding on them with a hammer.....
Now this method is one that I could see myself doing, not so much to get the motor unstuck, but to take out my anger and get some revenge on this machine......
Nope with the plug being as close to the dia.of the bore one is pressing along the side of the pistion .Now if you were to press in the center of the piston another story.( When the engine fires there over 15000 psi. of force on the pistion)
YOU CAN DO IT,YOU CAN DO IT,IF YOU PUT YOUR MINE TO IT !
Well, the motor is out of the cub after I was unable to get it unlocked. The governor was locked up and I don't believe I'll be able to save the pistons because I'll probably damage them getting them out. This block will have to be decked and possible bored.
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