Fri Jan 24, 2014 8:44 pm
I don't know if this will work for a stuck engine or not, but I'm sure others, more knowledgeable, will chime in.
I was watching an antique tractor show and a story was presented of a difficult restoration. Part of the story was freeing up a stuck transmission. The owner packed the transmission with charcoal and kept the fire going for 13 hours. After that he was able to free up the transmission. He said that his father used that technique to free up stuck hit-n-miss engines by packing the water jacket with burning charcoal.
Sat Jan 25, 2014 11:55 am
Bill, that's interesting. I heated the cylinder walls a bit and that didn't help at all. I have the motor upside down with PB Blaster going in from the bottom now. I hate to ruin a good set of standard pistons, but that's probably what's going to happen. Fortunately, I have no deadline, so I can give it some more time. I believe I will try to press them out from the top with a hydraulic jack as was mentioned in this thread.
Thanks for the help,
Sat Jan 25, 2014 8:57 pm
I finally got the motor unlocked. I sprayed PB Blaster in from the bottom and let it set overnight. I took a punch and drove the pistons out the top. The came out easily. I think the block will survive with just honing. At least I ran a hone down through there and it cleaned up easily. I still have to measure everything......The valves are not worth saving. The bull gears were locked up, but I got them loose and also the governor. I can't imagine a worse engine, unless it's one that couldn't be saved. I think I'll vat the engine, deck the top, install new guides, valves and springs and new rings and see what happens.
Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:12 pm
If there is ever a next time try vinegar. Pour in the cylinders and let soak. have freed several blocks up this way
Mon Jan 27, 2014 12:12 am
The verdict is in......It was the bull gears and the governor that had the motor locked, but there was some pitting that is too deep to hone out. I'm going to deck the block (trying to find piston to deck spec), bore and hone it to .030, change all the valve train, guides and seats, polish the crank, and then it should be good as new at twice the price of the whole tractor in 1952. At least I'll know this tractor and know what I have......
Thanks for all the advice. Next tractor I buy will not be locked up.
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