cub farmall info

[timhillman]

I have a older cub that I replace the clutch in and now have problem when letting out on clutch slowly the whole tractor shakes when trying to ease out on the clutch. everything is new even through out bearing which the old one was carbon type. I went through the whole rear end tightening up all the back lash. I have ground the fly wheel at work, only took .003 off clutch surface but did not take off where pressure plates bolts to. I have been told that I need to do this also. I got to measuring the clutch surface on flywheel or height of the step from the 2 surfaces. it is .027 to .019 from the 2 surfaces. so I have .008 difference. also it appears that the clutch is not hitting all at the same time from the little bit of wear pattern cense I ground the flywheel. if anyone has any other ideas please let me know. i really need some feed back thank you.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

first question, when you installed the friction disk, did you put the long part of the hub toward the transmission?

[Eugene]

Pressure plate finger adjustment? First guess.

If it's not the pressure plate finger adjustment - gonna have to split the tractor again.

[Rick Spivey]

I agree with Eugene. Did you adjust the pressure plate fingers before re-assembling the tractor? Do a search on finger adjustment, you should find several posts on how it is done. It can be done without splitting, if you need to make the adjustment.

[timhillman]

yes, the clutch is in correctly, I have replaced the clutch once before several years ago. after replacing the clutch this last summer I wanted to see if any slippage so I held the brake and after that I had this shaking while letting out on the clutch. I forgot to ask in my first message how much of a step is there from flywheel to clutch surface I need this info so I can turn down the where pressure plate bolts down on flywheel??? I have had this tractor apart several time over this winter checking each move that I have made with shimming ring gear, also welded up and worked back spline where clutch engages. this a older 50s cub. I also found the info on this sight for the finger height. I know it was off a little from finger to finger. this time I use depth mic. I set them at 1 3/16 inch. I know if the turning of the flywheel does not work I am out of ideas. any other suggestion or ideas. thank you again.

[Eugene]

I have replaced the clutch once before several years ago. after replacing the clutch this last summer I wanted to see if any slippage so I held the brake and after that I had this shaking while letting out on the clutch.

Another guess or two. Part of the lining on the clutch disk came loose or - - - messed up the throwout bearing.

[timhillman]

I have replace clutch and pressure plate 2 time this winter and that did not help either and throw out bearing. does anyone have specs. on flywheel??? also the tractor is still split at this time until I can find out this info. or I just might have to send the flywheel off and let someone else turn this down. I just don't want to give up if turning flywheel does not work. thanks

[Rick Spivey]

Rereading your posts, it sounds as if the small difference you have measured on the flywheel could possibly be at play. With new clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing, tractor should not shake. Sounds like pressure plate is not pressing on clutch uniformly, which your wear pattern seems to confirm. So unless one of the components is bad even though new, I would also replace or resurface the flywheel. I have never measured the step you are asking about, and don't have a cub handy right now, so sorry to say I cannot help with that. Good Luck!

[Boss Hog]

used flywheels are cheap! That would be your easyest way out, then if you turned it you could turn both the same. sending out to a shop to turn your flywheel will do you no good as they most likely dont know the specs either

[Eugene]

after replacing the clutch this last summer I wanted to see if any slippage so I held the brake and after that I had this shaking while letting out on the clutch.

Still think the problem(s) is/are with the pressure plates, linkage, etc.. Clutch parts, pressure plate, disk, linkage are weaker, less robust, than a flywheel. If something going to be damaged by stepping on the brakes and not releasing the clutch, it's not the flywheel.

Have you checked the pressure plate(s) to see if it meets specifications. If the pressure plates are new, some are not very good quality.

Agree, purchase a used flywheel.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I do not have a loose flywheel to measure the step on the flywheel, but height should not be critical so long as it is the same all the way around and across. Difference in height should be covered by finger adjustment. While you have it split, verify that the transmission input shaft is not bent causing the friction disk to wobble, and that flywheel is not wobbling when engine is turned.

[MarkJacobson]

Turning a flywheel implies that it was done on a lathe. Surfacing a flywheel says that it was ground on a flywheel grinder, generally much more accurate. The bottom line is, are the un- machined mounting surfaces still parallel to the clutch disk contact surface. If it comes apart again, use a depth mic. to measure depth from one surface to the other. Turning a flywheel on a brake lathe is asking for trouble.
We all strongly recommend trying the finger adjustments first. Other things to check are pilot bushing to trans. input shaft wear/clearance, and bent T/O bearing hanger and its pivot shaft.
By the way, Taking off .003 is next to nothing. I can't imagine a worn flywheel cleaning up with that slight of a cut, Did you mean .030 ? Hang in there, Best of luck on your quest for the answer.

[timhillman]

we used a circular surface grinder to grind off .003 and the surface cleaned up. after looking at flywheel surface now it has not worn the finish down evenly looking at the grinder pattern. I did order a flywheel, a good used one. I am going to find out what the height difference is from clutch surface to flywheel surface where pressure plate mounts, should be around .030 then I am going to make sure the flywheel I just got is ok and use it. the flywheel has a new started ring gear on it. I will update this message when I get to put this back together sunday night. I work at a stamping and tool and die shop so lathes and machinery is not a problem. thank you everyone who has replied.

[timhillman]

I put the flywheel on that I got. I still have the same shacking when easing out where the clutch just start to grab. I did measure how much drive spline moves, or shaft not being straight, I put a indicator on end of shaft and the indicator moved .100 I have looked around on the webb and found new shafts. my question is area all the drive spline shafts the same??????? can someone please let me know. thanks in advance.

[Clark Thompson]

I dont think the flywheel has anything to do with it. If you take any material off the flywheel the pressure plate wont apply proper pressure to the clutch disc. I have had same problem many time in the past. There is only 3 things it can. improper pressure plate finger adjustment or bent clutch disc. or varible thickness of clutch lining. Also, over the years I have had a lot of problems with these china after market clutch componets. Found varible pressure plate spring pressure along with thickness of spring ratainers to be as much a .060 thinner than originals leading to cracking. In other words they are all JUNK!