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To really simplify charging/jumping a battery with out removing the battery box cover or buggering up the threads on the switch post. try this http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=16548. Cheap, simple, effective -- works like a charm for me. One of the late George Willer's elegant solutions to common problems.
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
Right you are, Bill! I have those copper tabs on most of my tractors, it's really convenient for connecting jumpers or a charger. If you have spare cable lugs laying around, they also work great. I never pitch an old cable without whacking the lug end off of it.
Bringing this back around to the 12-volt tractors, note that the post on the starter is a valid place to connect a charger only on the 6-volt starters. The 12-volt Cubs use a starter switch that is not directly on the starter. The lug end of the battery cable is on the switch. The switch is behind the dash if you have a push button start or under the platform if you have a key start, neither convenient to reach. On my 12-volt Cubs, I have installed plug-in pigtails that came with the battery maintainers. I connected the hot side to an ammeter terminal and the other end to a nearby ground. The plug tucks under the gas tank when using the tractor.
To clarify the clarification ; as long as it's ORIGINALLY a 12V tractor. A 12V conversion to an originally 6V tractor most likely will still have the 6V starter (which works fine at 12V) and the switch on the starter.
HEY! Great idea! Thanks, and a tip of the hat to you, Bill. A bow to George. I like the near location of the two copper pipes, properly wacked and attached.
Yeah, that is why my first sentence included:
Usability of the starter post for connecting a charger is a function of the starter/switch design not the number of volts that are being applied. But now I am just adding redundancy to your clarification. To further clarify what I said, I should address the question of which ammeter lug to use. I connected mine to the terminal on the "battery" side of the ammeter so the charger isn't running through the ammeter. If you connect to the other side, the ammeter will register whatever the actual charge rate is. It should charge the battery either way. You could also do it by connecting to the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator. Whether that is convenient depends on which way the regulator was bolted on. The wire already on the regulator BAT terminal should be connected to the ammeter and the charging current will register on the ammeter. Note that all these connections on the ammeter or voltage regulator are for a battery charger only and will be of no use for jump starting or booster starting with a heavy duty charger.
I hope this cleared everything up.
Jim, not everyone has a PhD in Cubs and can automatically decipher, or even realize, that they have a 6V starter when they are looking at a 12V battery. (How many 12V conversion threads have some form of "how do I change my starter to 12V?") I made my comment for the benefit of the novice Cubber reading this thread now or in the future who sees a 12V battery, thinks they have a 12V Cub, and that this great idea of the copper tabs wouldn't apply to them. My comment added to yours, would I hope, give anyone in the 12V conversion crowd enough information to determine whether it's possible to use the tabs instead of just passing on the idea because they have a "12V Cub".
As far as that goes, someone could put a threaded stud into a 6-volt starter to relocate the switch (it's been done). So let me clarify it a little more by pointing out that you can connect a charger at the starter if and only if the switch (the thing with a lever) is mounted directly on the starter. Oh wait, that is where I started.
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