Decisions to make about the '50 Cub

[AL Farmall Boy]

Although I haven't personally used these tires or seen them in person, they look pretty decent in the pictures for the price of them. This place is in Tennessee , seems like it is Not a bad price on 6 ply rear and 4 ply front.

Anyone on here have anything to say about these tires?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUB-FARMALL-Tractor-Tires-2-8-3x24-R1-w-Tubes-2-400X12-3-Rib-w-Tubes-/350549582882?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item519e622422

[Ben B]

That looks like a pretty good deal for four new tires. I'll consider that. Thanks! I'm also considering a set of turf tires. If I do get turf tires, I will need a set of chains for them. How hard is it to find a set of chains for turf tires, and where from?

The boys have all voiced their opinion that getting rid of this cub is not an option, nor is dismantling it. So, it's going to stick around. Also, I gave it a paint job a couple of years ago, but that hardly qualified as a restoration. I just couldn't stand the pinkish purple color it was. So, it looks pretty good, now we just need to get it performing as good as it looks.

I need to prioritize what it needs. It runs pretty good, starts every time, and doesn't smoke. Its main problem is, it lacks power. I will try hotter plugs as has been suggested. Also, I need to try to extract the remains of the old main jet out of the carburetor and put a new one in it. If the jury rigged carburetor won't let the main jet seal, then it will have to be repaired, or replaced. Another big problem is the right brake that doesn't appear to work at all. I need to pull that final drive off of it and find out why. I'll probably go ahead and put the seals in that area while it is apart.

At some point, I want to rebuild the magneto so it works again. My magneto has been gutted and an external coil wired to it. But hey, it does work the way it is. Also, I need to replace the bottom plate for the bolster because its been cracked and brazed back together. The transmission has also been brazed on the left side where it mounts up to the final drive. So, sooner or later it needs replaced. The front axle tube is also welded and needs replaced. And finally, as anyone can see who walks up to it, practically every seal on the thing is leaking.

But, it certainly is repairable. And that is exactly what we are going to do! This spring we need to get it up to snuff to do the chores its needed for, and in the mean time I'm going to be buying up the parts it needs. And if all goes as planned, next winter it will get the rest of what it needs.

[twotone]

I've bought tires from Tucker tire for my Cub and my Super A. So far, so good. Real fast shipping also.

[Ben B]

I went out and made a video of the cub starting this morning. After listening to it, whatever it is that causing it to lack power can't be that bad. It may just need a masters touch to get it right.

Here it is if anyone wants to watch it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdRYfpXtWog

[Bob McCarty]

Ben, The main jet can be helicoiled if the threads are stripped.

Bob

[Eugene]

Its main problem is, it lacks power.

Compression tests, if satisfactory, a full tune up.

[baldwindiesel]

I purchased my front pair of CUB tires from them. They were fairly priced, and arrived quickly. The only issue I had was a bad tube, which I ended up replacing.

Baldwindiesel

[gitractorman]

Tell you what, that Cub isn't bad at all. The tires look like they've got tons of tread left. I wouldn't worry about the tube pushing through until it goes. I sure wouldn't replace them until one blows out completely.

You've reconfirmed my thoughts from your original post. That engine doesn't burn any oil or smoke at all! I'd do a good tune up and adjust the valves. A cub will start and run great but won't have any power if the valves aren't closing/opening properly or if there is crud in them. The tune up and valve adjustment would be at the top of my list.

Next I'd do the clutch. I'd say you're losing more power with a lousy clutch than anything.

Then I'd tackle the final drive seals and brake replacement. Gotta have brakes!

I'm not so sure I'd mess around with the magneto at all. The way it's setup seems to start and run fine. If you get into the magneto rebuild, you're going to open up a big old can of worms. For a working tractor, I'd leave that magneto alone.

I don't think I'd worry about those casting break in the bolster or tranny either, unless you really want to tear into it. There's no fix for those other than replacing the parts.

Anyway, just my thoughts.

[Buzzard Wing]

Just a thought on the 'leaky finals', I would wager the problem is a tranny that is/was full of water.

[Ben B]

It is a possibility about the tranny having water in it. I never thought about it, but it did set out in the weather at one time for a bit. It's certainly possible. I'll check it. Thanks!

[Buzzard Wing]

There is a lot of posts regarding the tranny check level plug etc. They will send you in the right direction.

If the level is too high it will leak out past the leather seals at the differentials and down and out at the finals. There is a drain hole under the brake, could be telling if you poke them free and you get swill coming out. This picture is 90 out but there is a cavity on the bottom, completely filled in the picture! That is where the drain hole is.

[Ben B]

The photo helps a lot! That's more or less what mine look like. Looks like I need to pull the finals and clean them up, and fix some of these leaks. My left brake works fine rolling forward, but not backward. I have no brakes when rolling backward, and that's ain't good!

[Ben B]

Okay. Now that the compression issue is fixed, and the engine is running like a top, I can finally move on to other things. Next is the brake on the right side. I reached up in the hole on the final drive and I can spin the brake drum with my finger. So that is exactly why that brake doesn't work!

Next item is to pull that final drive off and fix the brake drum. Are there any special tricks to getting the final drive off and the axle out?

Thanks in advance!

[Bob McCarty]

Ben, Here's the section from the GSS-1411 manual: http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... Brakes.htm
The brake drum has a key and a set screw with a jam nut on it. When you get it out, the problem should be obvious, one or more broken or missing.

Bob

[Scrivet]

.....Next item is to pull that final drive off and fix the brake drum. Are there any special tricks to getting the final drive off and the axle out?.........

When you unbolt the final the axle will come with it. Here's a final thread that may be of interest. There is a link in it to a final I worked on about four years ago with pictures. http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75443&hilit=final