Sat Jan 25, 2014 1:37 pm
can one get a steering shaft and worm gear back in the boulster with out dropping the front axle and all? Elmer Fields.
Sat Jan 25, 2014 1:43 pm
Yes. 2 bolts, the steering bushing near the steering wheel, and it pulls straight out.
Sat Jan 25, 2014 1:44 pm
Elmer Fields wrote:can one get a steering shaft and worm gear back in the boulster with out dropping the front axle and all? Elmer Fields.
Yes, but it can be frustrating at times
. You just need to rotate it in once it is lined up.
Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:19 pm
Make sure that the lower thrust washer (#7) stays in place in the bolster or goes back in place on the steering shaft. Use some grease to stick it there. Also note that the parts shown at the lower end of the shaft are not shown in the correct order, even though it looks like they are. Parts 8, 9 & 10 go above part 6 and go on from the steering wheel end of the shaft.
Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:37 pm
Thanks Barnyard, I guess I'm half through since I have the frustration part already going. I pulled it out so I thought it should go back.I'll try again the next warm DAY WE HAVE. Seems one day the high is 18 and 2 days later its 60. Its been astrange winter so far.Elmer.
Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:51 pm
Elmer Fields wrote:Seems one day the high is 18 and 2 days later its 60.
I wish we could get two days of 60 degrees so I can get loaded for a trip. Now I have 20 degree temps with 25 mile winds. No 60 drees days shown in the ten day forcast.
Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:23 pm
On a side note can I ask, is there any way to adjust these steering boxes to take out some slack?
Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:28 pm
There are two bronze bushings inside on the gear shaft that will wear. You can compensate for that by removing the cotter key on the bottom of the shaft and tightening the castellated nut. Slack can also be removed by removing or changing the shim thickness on the steering arm that comes out the front of the box. Slack at the outer ends of the tie rods (from wear) can be reduced by removing the cotter there and tightening the slotted end piece.
Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:17 pm
I've got slack in my steering also. Mine is nearly half a turn on the wheel. I'm used to it though, but I probably should fix it. It makes the front wheels shift and walk some and I have to chase the front end with the steering wheel because of it. I'd say I'm probably just making it worse by not dealing with it.
Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:33 pm
Here's an old post by Ralph on how to tighten the castellated nut:
Re: steering box nut
by Ralph » Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:50 pm
In order to tighten the play in addition to removing the cotter pin you have to loosen the clamp bolt on thr rear of the pitman 5/8 bolt head ---11/16 nut
then turn steering wheel all the way to the left put 1 inch wrench on the nut and have helper turn the steering wheel to the right and the nut will tighten may need to do the wheel left wheel right a couple times to get it to the correct tightness.
be shure to tighten the clamp bolt after adjustment .
and reinstall cotter pin
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CASTLE NUT
Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:44 pm
Thanks! I'll try that!
Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:19 pm
I over tightened my castle nut, bad move. It steers a little hard now, and you can't loosen the nut to make it steer easy, it doesn't loosen the steering at all.
Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:09 am
[b]How great the power of Illustrated PARTS breakdown! Perhaps I can quit "slopping" around on my CUBS?
Fri Feb 14, 2014 2:32 pm
And all of the parts are available through the dealer or TM Tractor.
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.
phpBB Mobile / SEO by Artodia.