Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:32 pm
Looks like you have your solution.
Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:43 pm
As far as using the loader to turn the compost windrow, let me tell you of my experience turning compost windrows, really BIG windrows.
- the compost material was wood chips
- used a Ford tractor (model escapes me now) with FEL with pallet forks
- stuck the forks in the bottom of the windrow and lifted
- worked the windrow from both sides
- windrow was effectively stirred to promote another heating cycle
- the windrow stayed in place, a great benefit due to the limited space available for composting
- they had used a bucket on the FEL before and moved the windrows a bit, the pallet forks were effective and much more efficient
- even with the pallet forks it took a day, sometimes more to stir the windrows
I believe that something like John's forks
would be effective. It may involve trial and error to find the right combination of materials/design but it should work. I'm making the assumption that the material is lighter and in smaller piles.
Hope this helps.
Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:48 pm
Yup, that appears to be the later model Wagner than mine. There is still one model later than that which had a hydraulic bucket. I believe yours will be easier to remove than mine. The one you have I believe has different final drive mounts than mine, and you can remove one bolt in each side and leave the brackets on the finals, 2 bolts on the front mounts and disconnect the hydraulic lines, then raise the rear of the loader up with an overhead hoist and back out from under it. Mine has it's own pump, which makes it a little less handy, since I have to remove the pump and put a cover plate in place of it. Some place on one of the manual servers or on TM Tractors site is a manual for that model I believe. I bought mine due to a bad back and I cannot pick stuff up and carry it around anymore. It came with the tractor, and that is all I use that tractor for, other than occasionally pulling a trailer, etc. I have put thrust bearings in the the front spindles to carry the weight, plus I have put wider wheels (rear from a Cadet) and car tires that I can inflate to 40psi, all of which makes steering much easier. If you have one of the earlier engines, I would also recommend a set of the engine braces as a safety precaution. One note, you will also have to remove or relocate the left headlight. To power it by your Touch control system there is a bypass block you can install that allows you to tap into the system for the loader, and still allows operation of the touch control.
Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:57 pm
To facilitate easier installation/removal, use quick-connects on the hydraulics.
Make sure, though, that you connect the two hoses from the bypass block together when the loader is removed. Otherwise your system will be "dead-headed" and you will cause damage.
Use a male end on one hose coming from the bypass block, and a female on the other, to make it easy to connect them together after the loader is removed. It also ensures that you connect them properly when it comes time to reinstall the loader.
Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:10 pm
Bill, I think my tiny windrows would need more tines to grab the grasses, lift them, reposition them. That's a guess on my part. The idea, obviously not clear in my mind yet, is to somehow lift the windrow, or a portion of it, move it, tip it over if feasible, and restack into a fresh windrow.
I'm not all that sure that the loader that I have is for the Cub. There's a nagging sense that I need to verify that the loader, when in place, won't do devastating damage to the Cub. I'm trying to bring more photos of my loader online, but -- as usual -- I'm daunted by internet stuff. Aren't there other Wagner loaders and specific dimensions or structural issues particular to the Cub. I'm, as you can tell, extremely concerned that I not damage the Cub.
However, if the loader is the right one, then I'm probably a very happy Cubber. I'm a bit psyched over the possibilities after years of the loader sitting here. For instance, since there's a warming trend in the weather now, we want to get the straw/manure out of the sheep stall inside the barn. Usually we hand shovel/pitchfork it into (depending on weather) a box on a sled, or a wheelbarrow. Then we cart or slide it out onto the garden and dump it. With a loader, we could place the loader at the gate inside the barn, fill the bucket, back the Cub out, and if the soil/snow is right, take it out to the garden and even distribute the manure better than mere dumping. That's a pretty cool scenario. That's one. The windrow re-stacking is another.
My usual setup here is in the early spring, the Cub is without implements--doing hauling of this and that --cart with chickens to the field, or another cart with brush to a pile, but this is after the snow is gone. Then when the field grasses come up, on goes the sickle bar (and I leave the under-tractor stuff on permanently); then as winter approaches off goes the sickle bar and on goes the snow plow. Chickens get moved around all summer, carts get hauled. In the spring, I'll leave the snow plow on if I'm anticipating grading of driveway, barn areas. Seems like, if the loader works out, that I'd want to use it after all field mowing is done -- later summer/early fall for windrow work...and then comes snow. How, following this line, does the loader compare to the snow plow for winter plowing?
Still flummoxed with photo imports, but working on it.
BTW, thanks to all for great help... DickB
Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:14 pm
John wrote: If you have one of the earlier engines, I would also recommend a set of the engine braces as a safety precaution. One note, you will also have to remove or relocate the left headlight. To power it by your Touch control system there is a bypass block you can install that allows you to tap into the system for the loader, and still allows operation of the touch control.
John --what are engine braces? The rest of the modifications I'll attend to later. Still trying to bring online more photos.
Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:42 pm
Looks like I figured out the photo uplink stuff:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:46 pm
There's no link that I know of, Don, to the fellow who made those braces. Would anyone know details on how to make them (size of pipe, threading, dimensions, etc.)? Looks pretty much straight forward. Nice bit of insurance on engine block security. I like it.
Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:06 pm
Send a PM to Bezirk and he will get back to you pronto about the braces.
Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:32 pm
I found the link to the model loader yours appears to be.http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... index.html
They may be buried in the snow, but you appear to be missing some mounting brackets.
Fri Jan 31, 2014 8:15 am
I found that link, thanks to Rudi's great job of getting manuals online. Printed it out. And I discovered that there are probably missing mounting brackets and perhaps if there is one, some sort of diverting block for the hydraulics. So, John, if you might, when you get a chance, I'd like photos and some dimensions and comments on mountings, hydraulics. Looks like you saved my goose on that loader. I was convinced that thee was a high likelihood that it wasn't right for the Cub. Now I know better.
Now mounting issues, hydraulic block, refurbishing everything --everything!-- on the loader seems to have magically appeared on my plate.
BTW, John, you wrote that your back got you on to the loader. I need to add that it is my back that is now goading me on to make the Cub "old guy friendly."
Fri Jan 31, 2014 8:35 am
One of you Wagner loader owners may be interested in pursuing this...http://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-Internatio ... 23357e9182
Fri Jan 31, 2014 9:49 am
Dick, from what I can learn, there were 2 versions of the WM-1 loader. Mine is the early one, and would only fit a standard cub. Yours appears to be the later version that will fit a standard cub, Loboy, and also with a fast hitch. My mounting brackets are quite a bit different than what you need. Among other things, the loader cylinders attach to the brackets that bolt to the final drive on mine, and on the later ones such as yours, the cylinders attach to the loader which makes it possible to unbolt the loader from the brackets and lift it off without crawling under the tractor. I will help you where I can, but for those brackets you need to get the pictures and dimensions from someone with the later model loader. The same applies to the front mount, it is different. The easiest way to tell is that all of the later ones I have seen have a tank on the cross arm on top, but the older ones like mine have it built into the frame on the left side. The manual Don posted a link to is for the one you have, but from past experience, expect it to sell high in the $40 to $60 range.
Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:23 am
It has a "Buy it Now" of $20, John.
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