Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.

Moderator: Team Cub

Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby alfreema » Sat Feb 01, 2014 12:09 am

Scrivet wrote:
alfreema wrote:If you still have a light switch how many positions does it have 3 or 4?


It's a 4 position light switch, but there isn't a single wire left running to the light switch anymore. I plan on taking that out and cleaning it up and getting it wired back up properly after I get this other stuff figured out.
alfreema
Cub Star
Cub Star
 
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:10 am
Location: Kansas
Zip Code: 67235
Tractors Owned: '48 IHC

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby Scrivet » Sat Feb 01, 2014 8:43 am

You would have one or the other not two.

A cutout is an older style voltage regulation device where you manually control the charge of the battery by using the first two positions of the light switch L for low charge , H for high charge. You are grounding the field of the generator through the switch either directly or through a resistor (there is also a resistor that looks like a spring on the light switch for dimmming the lights). The four position switch is called a "light" switch but is really a "charge rate and light" switch. The last two positions D dim and B bright are the only positions that have any effect on the lights.

A voltage regulator is a cutout with an automatic charge control built in so you don't need the first two positions of the light switch.

When you take the cover off if it has one wound coil it's a cutout, if it has two or three it's a regulator.
Scrivet
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 1310
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:51 pm
Location: MO, Potosi
Zip Code: 63664

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby alfreema » Sat Feb 01, 2014 10:45 pm

So at some point did I.H. just switch from cutouts over to voltage regulators then? Like cubs newer than serial number X and below are cutouts but serial number X and above have voltage regulators or something like that?
alfreema
Cub Star
Cub Star
 
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:10 am
Location: Kansas
Zip Code: 67235
Tractors Owned: '48 IHC

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby Scrivet » Sat Feb 01, 2014 11:07 pm

Yes. In 1950 at serial #115403 IH switched to a three position light switch and a voltage regulator. Keep in mind though any of the prior tractors could have been upgraded or butchered by a previous owner in the past 64 years. So date/serial isn't an absolute identifier as to what you have now, just what it left the factory with.

Where did I find that??????????
There's a great database maintained by Raymond Durban on Rudi's manual server.
To get there click on the right hand side Manuals tab at the top of the page.
Then scroll down to IH and OEM Manufacturer's Information and click on Cub Production Information.
Then scroll down to the Farmall Cub Database and click on Cub Production Spreadsheet R4.
Scroll down to page 13. The changes are shaded in pink so they are easier to spot.
Scrivet
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 1310
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:51 pm
Location: MO, Potosi
Zip Code: 63664

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby alfreema » Sat Feb 01, 2014 11:40 pm

Whoa! Nice!

Since I have the correct 4 position switch would I be best suited to try and find an original cutout (or a good aftermarket replacement) or go with a voltage regulator? I guess I am not super keen on trying to remember when I should change the switch from L to H or vice versa.

But I have no experience with any of this, so what seems to be the preference out there?
alfreema
Cub Star
Cub Star
 
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:10 am
Location: Kansas
Zip Code: 67235
Tractors Owned: '48 IHC

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby Scrivet » Sun Feb 02, 2014 11:14 am

There's a reason most everybody knows what a regulator is and few know what a cutout is. They work without the operator thinking. I would go with a quality regulator wired correctly and just have two off positions on the light switch. In my opinion, the only time to use a cutout is if yours is still working or if you have to have EVERYTHING EXACTLY like it came from the factory. Which by the way is impossible but that's another topic.

If you want to go with a cutout I believe they are even more expensive than a good regulator. Don't worry about switching from L to H unless you are using your Cub several hours a day it'll be on H. A Cub doesn't generate enough electricity on L to keep the battey up during the limited use most see. Even on H with the lights on you most likely are slowly draining the battery.
Scrivet
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 1310
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:51 pm
Location: MO, Potosi
Zip Code: 63664

Resoration: Charlotte, 1948 Cub (Kansas)

Postby alfreema » Sun Feb 02, 2014 5:28 pm

Right on, a voltage regulator it is.
Last edited by alfreema on Mon Feb 03, 2014 5:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
alfreema
Cub Star
Cub Star
 
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:10 am
Location: Kansas
Zip Code: 67235
Tractors Owned: '48 IHC

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby alfreema » Mon Feb 03, 2014 5:54 pm

Is there any way to replace the entire thread topic with "Restoration: Charlotte, 1948 Cub (Kansas)"? I was thinking I would just turn this into my restoration thread.
alfreema
Cub Star
Cub Star
 
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:10 am
Location: Kansas
Zip Code: 67235
Tractors Owned: '48 IHC

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby Don McCombs » Mon Feb 03, 2014 7:15 pm

Start a new thread.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
User avatar
Don McCombs
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
 
Posts: 10365
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby alfreema » Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:44 pm

Ok so I have thoroughly cleaned the original ignition switch and as I posted earlier, a PO had ground or broken off the tabs on the main body. So I could JB Weld the back plate to it, and hope the JB Weld holds up to continuously pushing/pulling the ignition in and out ... but ... I had this idea:

The main body is almost exactly 1" in diameter. 3/4" conduit is specified to be 1.050 in OD. So I was thinking it would be cool to take a 3/4 - 14 NPT die and cut threads into the main body so that I could then screw a 3/4" conduit bushing right over the plate, onto the main housing, in order to hold the plate in and still be able to remove and service the switch in the future. It would look great and be functional. My only concern is that the main housing is too thin to cut threads into.

Thoughts?
alfreema
Cub Star
Cub Star
 
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:10 am
Location: Kansas
Zip Code: 67235
Tractors Owned: '48 IHC

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby havoc1482 » Fri Feb 21, 2014 12:32 am

Scrivet wrote:Yes. In 1950 at serial #115403 IH switched to a three position light switch and a voltage regulator. Keep in mind though any of the prior tractors could have been upgraded or butchered by a previous owner in the past 64 years. So date/serial isn't an absolute identifier as to what you have now, just what it left the factory with.


So any tractor before that year would have had a cutout from the factory? And all tractors after that year used only regulators from the factory and not either/or? I'm curious if the 1950 switch to the regulator the same for the other models? (Super A, C, H, ect?)
Mike

126th Combat Support Battalion - B Company "Bulldogs" | 26th Maneuver Enhancement Brigade "Yankee" | Massachusetts Army National Guard
User avatar
havoc1482
Cub Star
Cub Star
 
Posts: 186
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:17 am
Location: Granville, MA
Zip Code: 01034
eBay ID: havoc1482
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Super A
Twitter ID: @havoc1482

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Feb 21, 2014 2:00 am

havoc1482 wrote:
Scrivet wrote:Yes. In 1950 at serial #115403 IH switched to a three position light switch and a voltage regulator. Keep in mind though any of the prior tractors could have been upgraded or butchered by a previous owner in the past 64 years. So date/serial isn't an absolute identifier as to what you have now, just what it left the factory with.


So any tractor before that year would have had a cutout from the factory? And all tractors after that year used only regulators from the factory and not either/or? I'm curious if the 1950 switch to the regulator the same for the other models? (Super A, C, H, ect?)

That date/number is specific to the Cub. Other models changed at different times. The effective serial number for most models can be found in that model's parts catalog.
User avatar
Jim Becker
Team Cub
Team Cub
 
Posts: 11847
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 3:14 pm
Location: TX/MN
Zip Code: 75048
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Ignition Switch Repair or Replace

Postby Rick Spivey » Fri Feb 21, 2014 5:50 am

alfreema wrote:Ok so I have thoroughly cleaned the original ignition switch and as I posted earlier, a PO had ground or broken off the tabs on the main body. So I could JB Weld the back plate to it, and hope the JB Weld holds up to continuously pushing/pulling the ignition in and out ... but ... I had this idea:

The main body is almost exactly 1" in diameter. 3/4" conduit is specified to be 1.050 in OD. So I was thinking it would be cool to take a 3/4 - 14 NPT die and cut threads into the main body so that I could then screw a 3/4" conduit bushing right over the plate, onto the main housing, in order to hold the plate in and still be able to remove and service the switch in the future. It would look great and be functional. My only concern is that the main housing is too thin to cut threads into.

Thoughts?


Not sure that the main body would stand up to threads. I also don't ever remember any "tabs" on the back of the magneto switches.I would use epoxy or JB Weld, or even "Gorilla Glue" to paste the composite back into the metal shell. Originally the edges were slightly bent ("crimped") over the edge of the composite part. My attempt to make one stay by crimping it again didn't work well. Glue is the way to go.

Those switches (original style) are still available on ebay and such, but you are taking a chance anytime you buy one. Some work, some don't, and others are temperamental.

Not sure if your earlier question about its function got answered. This switch only grounds out the points, and stops the engine from running. To me it is better described as a "kill" switch rather than an ignition switch, but since it has a positive stop in both the "run" and "stop" positions, I guess I can accept the term "Ignition switch".
Rick Spivey
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
User avatar
Rick Spivey
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
 
Posts: 1707
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2007 10:07 pm
Location: SC, Simpsonville 29681
Zip Code: 29681
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Previous

Return to Farmall Cub

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: oldhammerhead and 8 guests