Restoration: Charlotte, 1948 Cub (Kansas)

[Bob McCarty]

Here's pictures from TM Tractor that show all sides of a rear final: http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gfi ... g1_001.htm
You'll have to determine if the fender is bent or the rockshaft is bent (more or less than it should be). A long ear dash takes a bent rockshaft, while a short ear dash takes a straight one (if you have hydraulics).
If the hole where the stud/bolt was is too big for a helicoil, there are solid inserts (like EZ sert) that are thicker and require a larger initial hole, but also use standard tap sizes.

Bob

[alfreema]

Here's pictures from TM Tractor that show all sides of a rear final: http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gfi ... g1_001.htm
You'll have to determine if the fender is bent or the rockshaft is bent (more or less than it should be). A long ear dash takes a bent rockshaft, while a short ear dash takes a straight one (if you have hydraulics).
If the hole where the stud/bolt was is too big for a helicoil, there are solid inserts (like EZ sert) that are thicker and require a larger initial hole, but also use standard tap sizes.

Bob

I'm pretty certain it's the fender but will try and post pics tomorrow. The rockshaft assembly has a couple holes along the bottom. I was actually just toying with the idea of using one of those holes to push the fender over and "lock it in position" with some threaded rod and a spacer or something.

Can you give me more details (better yet a link) on the EZ sert products? I didn't find that brand Googling but it sounds like what I need. I believe the existing stud is 1 inch (it's huge).

[alfreema]

Whoa just Googled "threaded inserts" and found a link to Grainger with a ton of them. No idea what type would be appropriate for this application though.

[Bob McCarty]

Go to McMaster.com and look at these part #'s. 90248AO44, 90248AO45, and 90246AO44

Bob

[Stanton]

Here's a link to a How-To that Rudi did some time back. Hope this helps:

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=52696

[alfreema]

I'll take a look at Rudi's how-to in a minute, but in the mean time, here are some picks of how the rockshaft would be jammed up against the fender if I were to tighten it all down:

Image 1: Shows why I believe it's the fender that's bent. It really bows toward the tractor in the middle but bends toward the tire at the front.


Image 2: Looking down the rockshaft, it doesn't seem to be that bent, but I don't know ... you can see the adjustment nut just laying right up against the fender.


Image 3: Just an alternative view, really.


Image 4: Shows the hole in the bottom of the rockshaft's assembly that I could use as a "spacer" to push the fender over and keep the rockshaft from hitting the fender. I'd hate to use it for that purpose, because I shouldn't need to, but not sure the best way to resolve this issue.


Image 5: Not a great photo, but shows looking down the rockshaft from the front.


Extra question: In image 2, notice the rockshaft is really sloppy where the r-clip hairpin cotter keeps it from falling out of the assembly -- should I add some washers to keep it from being so sloppy?

[BIGHOSS]

Is this a Cub rockshaft and lift rod? Never seen one like this. All lift rods that I know of are made from a one piece 3/4" rod with no adjustment collar.

[alfreema]

Is this a Cub rockshaft and lift rod? Never seen one like this. All lift rods that I know of are made from a one piece 3/4" rod with no adjustment collar.

I have no idea, but it did come off of a Cub -- that's all I know. The assembly seems to align with the mounting holes perfectly (even though I am missing a bolt). Maybe the original shaft was damaged and replaced?

[goldencub]

You might try some washers on that rockshaft to take the slop out of the rear fitting. It looks to me that by doing so, it will cause the rockshaft to roll up and to the right a little bit - maybe enough to clear the fender? My rockshaft is nice and snug there in the rear, with no play or ability to roll or twist. Also, for what it's worth, my shaft is one single peice just as Big Hoss mentions. Al D

[Bill Hudson]

You lift rod is a home-brewed affair. Likewise, the rockshaft appears to one from a handlift, modified the work with the hydraulic lift. All lift rods I have seen started life as a steel rod with ends modified to fit the TC and rockshaft. There are bends in the to accommodate the long ear/short ear dash. Have I seen lift rods strengthened (questionable) in various ways? You betcha. A proper lift rod will solve 99.99% of your problem.

Bill

[alfreema]

Yes, I placed a washer in there and took up the slop but still had clearance issues. But it definitely is better not being so sloppy.

I was unable to bend the fender while it's mounted (no surprise). I was able to get the clearance I needed by inserting a 2x4 between the assembly and the fender. It's not an original IH 2x4, but with some primer, paint and poly urethane I don't think you will be able to tell it's a knockoff.

I was able to get the carry all working! One issue is that it's still 15" off the ground when the hydraulics are full down. Is that reasonable or should I expect it to be able to go closer to the ground? I have taken pictures but again am on my phone.

[alfreema]

You lift rod is a home-brewed affair. Likewise, the rockshaft appears to one from a handlift, modified the work with the hydraulic lift. All lift rods I have seen started life as a steel rod with ends modified to fit the TC and rockshaft. There are bends in the to accommodate the long ear/short ear dash. Have I seen lift rods strengthened (questionable) in various ways? You betcha. A proper lift rod will solve 99.99% of your problem.

Bill

Thanks! Can you post a link to a good picture of a proper lift rod, so I can see what I am missing?

[Bill V in Md]

Below is what a standard Cub lift rod looks like on a hand lift assembly. Also check out the TM Tractor website. I am pretty sure they have photos also.

Liftrod & Rockshaft R1.JPG (130.22 KiB) Viewed 622 times

[Hengy]

I'm wondering if the "home brewed" rear rock shaft is a modified hand lift setup. The reach rod is definitely bigger than a standard unit, for sure. The double holes that the reach rod mounts to at the rear is what reminds me of the hand lift modification.

I think that the larger diameter rod might be causing some of your jamming. But I am viewing this on a phone app, so I may be wrong!

[alfreema]

OK, it's that time of the year where I get about 1 month to work on my Cub before my other life takes over. I'm back to the very original problem I have had right along .... she just won't start in weather colder than 70. I reread this thread and this is where I am at:

1) We popped the valve cover off for the first time and took a look. Pretty darn clean! I was actually quite surprised! All of the tappets spun freely and a quick visual inspection showed that they appeared to be working properly when we hand cranked it.

2) All valves had a 0.013 gap between the tappets, except one, so we adjusted it.

3) We checked the gap on the spark plugs, which are Champion D15Y. The were all right around 0.025.

4) We ran a compression check. We can't start the old bird, so it was a cold compression check. We didn't put any oil down, so it's also a dry check. At any rate the results are terrible. Starting from front to back:

Cyl 1: 42psi
Cyl 2: 85psi
Cyl 3: 50psi
Cyl 4: 62psi

Obviously not good. Not sure that adding oil would have improved the situation much, but we can certainly do that.

5) The battery is in great shape. Took it down to the battery store and they load tested it and it performed excellently.

6) I took some 400 grit sandpaper to the commuter in the starter. The commuter actually looked like it was in very good shape, but I thought I'd go ahead and see if I could clean it up a touch. I didn't notice any difference after sanding it, though I will admit I didn't sand it very long out of fear of doing more harm than good.

I'm not sure where to go from here. The *grind - grind - grind - quit" problem when trying to start Charlotte isn't going to go away on it's own. We believe the engine just isn't getting enough compression to kick over. Using starter fluid helps quite a bit, but even that isn't quite enough to get her started when it's this cold. With starter fluid she ALMOST turns over. I'm guessing because the ether is in a gas state that travels more easily

What's the next natural step to take given the current situation? What other diagnostics/information can I do to help you gurus isolate what is causing Charlotte to not want to purr for me?