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Just got the final drive off the left side of my 1954 Cub. I found out why the brake pedal would not depress. The final drive had been broken and welded back together.
There was a a weld drip binding the brake lever.
Gonna have to drill and tap the trans housing and put in EZLOC thread inserts to fix the final drive mounting area on the left side from the hack job that was done when ever ago.
I'll start looking for both a transmission case and final drive so I can properly repair it next fall. The local tractor salvage yard wants 300.00 for a bare cased and 400.00 swap for a complete final drive. I think he wants way to much. I didn't even bother checking on a trans case price.
Last edited by CSA_CUB on Sun Feb 09, 2014 4:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Check with JP Tractor Salvage, they are a site sponsor. You can also post a want ad in the VINE, somebody may be able to fix you up.
The transmission doesn't look that bad to me. I think I'd soak the one bolt in Kroil, then drill the bolt and use an ez-out to remove the ramiander. I would definitely look for a new final drive thought. You should be able to find one easy enough on here.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
I agree the transmission doesn't look that bad. I have one with similar repairs. http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=61883&hilit=blade
I must strongly disagree with the recomendation to use EZouts.They will cause you problems! Think about it for a minute. In this case a 3/8" bolt broke. So you are going to drill a smaller hole and insert an EZ out that is considerably less than 3/8" in that hole. Then you are going to apply force and expect it to remove the stub. It is going to do one of two things neither is to work like it is supposed to. It's either going to twist off or it's going to expand in the hole ( gets bigger as it twists in) and break the casting. The only thing you should do with an EZout is to throw it as far as you can where it will never be found. Using a left handed drill bit is your best bet in my opinion. Then pick remaining threads and/or gently run a tap down the hole to clean it up.
I see a dowel pin in the top of the transmission, but don't see a broken bolt. Where is it? if the bolt holes are wallered out or the threads are worn, you can probably do a Helicoil repair. I did one on a cub while replacing a brake and it was quick and easy.
I think it's more like "Broken Final Drive leads to bad Brakes" All the best on your repair.
There is no broken bolt. Previous drilled out holes to WAY to big. The helicoil fix is out of the question do to the size the holes were drilled out to. However, there is company called EZ LOK who makes a thread repair insert. Which is a High carbon steel threaded pipe on the out side and on the inside to replace these boogered up holes. Here's there YOUTUBE video on how it works. Yes the trans case is usable, but I'm a perfectionist. It'll get me by for this garden season, but I plan on redoing the hack restoration (painted over the dirt and grease to sell it) job the winter of 2014-15.
True, but if had not of been for no brakes I wouldn't have known how bad my problem was.
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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