Farmall Cub

Please help. I am an Agriculture Teacher in Lubbock, Texas and in class we are restoring a 1949 (serial 761**) farmall cub. This is my Wife's late Grandfather's (Howard B.) Cub. It was in a rough state when I had received this to restore. As you can tell from the picture, and I had my hopes up when I saw that it was white... Demonstrator hopefully!... But it was crushed when I scraped off the white/yellow paint to reveal red paint. Howard had changed this Cub over to a 12v system.

We have since overhauled and painted the tractor and we are to the point that we need to do the electrical work. But I have a few questions.

Does a 49 need a Voltage Regulator or a Cut-out relay?

Does a 49 need a 4 or 3 position switch for the lights?

Does the Voltage regulator/Cut-out relay need to be saddle mounted on the Generator?

Finally, Can someone please send me a picture of the back and front of the dash with the wires and gauges wired in for a 49 cub?

If some one could please help, we could use any and all help. Thank you in advance.

I don't have a photograph of the panel, but the wiring diagram is the first shown here:
http://www.atis.net/CubFAQ/cub_faq_2.html#q3

The original configuration had a cut-out relay (saddle mounted on the generator) and a 4 position light switch with low/high charge settings.

This should help.

Welcome to the Forum, txagteacher! Looks like Jim and Ricky have you fixed up. Just follow the Manual wiring diagrams and you should be fine.

Those Manuals are located under the "Rudi's Manual Server" link at the top, right of every page. Follow through to "Cub Parts Manuals" and then to the "TC-37A Parts Catalog (5-2-49)". You may down load any and all the manual you need.

We'd also like to see the newly painted '49 Cub.

Just my opinion, but if it more for just being resorted and not work. I would go back to the 6 volt system and as original to factory as possible. Brillman has nice looking wire sets with intrusions. http://brillman.com/store/ I have not used theirs yet. On my 47 I make my set our with the cloth covered wire at it turned out well. I did buy the long negative battery cable from them, little bit expensive but it looks nice as it is cloth covered like the original.

would like to see it all finished.

Welcome. Good project. Before you purchase any electrical parts, determine what you consider to be a restoration.

The 12 volt electrical system is much cheaper, much less expensive, to install if you need to purchase a regulator or cut out and a 6 volt generator. Electrical system powered by a 12 volt single wire alternator is much simpler to wire.

So is that supposed to have a 7 cable wiring harness?

Eugene wrote:Welcome. Good project. Before you purchase any electrical parts, determine what you consider to be a restoration.

The 12 volt electrical system is much cheaper, much less expensive, to install if you need to purchase a regulator or cut out and a 6 volt generator. Electrical system powered by a 12 volt single wire alternator is much simpler to wire.

Before Howard passed away he told his wife that the tractor is mine and I am to restore it fully. But if I take it then I can never sell it. I can only give it to somebody from my wife's side of the family. So to not only honor his wishes, and help my OCD tendencies, I am wanting to go full restoration.

txagteacher wrote:I take it then I can never sell it. I can only give it to somebody from my wife's side of the family.

By all means, original. Fully understand.

I still have my Grandfather's 1936 WC Allis Chalmers. My son wants it. Other than the WC all other tractors and machines are utilitarian - work machines only. So, no personal or family attachment.

txagteacher wrote:So is that supposed to have a 7 cable wiring harness?

No, it has the 4 wire harness.

So here is my next set of questions. If this tractor does take a 4 wire harness, does the four wire harness need a fuse holder on the dash?

If not then why is there a spot for a fuse on the dash? Shouldn't it be on the 4 way switch?

I know this is rough looking and I believe somebody relocated the oil gauge to the dash board. We have since put the oil gauge back.

You can pick up a good straight used dash on ebay pretty cheap. I would personally do that.

That may not be the original dash.

Don McCombs wrote:That may not be the original dash.

Then riddle me this... why on page 40 from ricky racer's post does it has a fuse on the bottom of the dash for the Magento Ignition part #28?

ricky racer wrote:This should help.

Question. Where does the wiring to and from the fuse go to? And then, does the tractor with a magneto have a generator, battery, starter, lights?