Farmall Cub

While reassembling one of my cubs last summer I couldn't find the wiring clip that goes on the front bolt of the tank support. After looking for it everywhere I could possibly imagine it being, I got another one from RTerry. I decided to repair the rear main that started leaking on my grader cub this winter, and when I grabbed my splitting stand off the wall hook, I found my clip.



If you look closely it is laying on the jack stand bracket where it is welded to the red beam.

Gremlins, John, Gremlins. I know they do that sort of stuff and the seem to show up more as we get older! Go figure.

John,
I just wanted to remark that that is a very clever way to build a splitter. Mine looked like something Fred Flintstone would have devised. I assume you use two, one for each side of the housing.
Nic

randallc wrote:Gremlins, John, Gremlins. I know they do that sort of stuff and the seem to show up more as we get older! Go figure.

Didn't figure you and John had any gremlin problems. Thought they all lived down here and spent their time on me and Billy Ray (and occasionally Tim)!

nic wrote:John,
I just wanted to remark that that is a very clever way to build a splitter. Mine looked like something Fred Flintstone would have devised. I assume you use two, one for each side of the housing.
Nic

No, just one, normally on the drivers side, but since I was lazy as well as having back problems I did not want to pull the grader blade off to get it on the driver side. When it is split there is only about a hundred pounds of weight on the stand, less if there are no hydraulics. The rear tires need to be aired up a little hard to keep the rear from settling a little to one side and throwing the bolts out of alinement.



This cub spends it life with a rear carry all, belly blade and front blade mounted all the time. In the summer I pull the pins and remove the front blade framework. The rest of the time I either chain up or change my home made adjustments according to what I am doing. I have 2 artificial hips, one of which required major reconstruction, as well as several back problems, and I did not want to pull all of that off just to replace the rear engine seal. I am the MASTER OF MAKE DO.

Note, several years ago I was replacing the throwout bearing and had the bright idea to lower the blade and put enough pressure on it to hold the rear up while I split it. That was NOT a good idea. The lift system air locked and would not prime or move. I ended up removing the Touch Control unit and pulling the TC head to reset the piston in the lowered position, before I could get it to work. Later, I realized I could probably have gotten it to work by removing the top allen plug in the lines at the TC unit and letting it push the air out there, but i have not tried that since, in case I was wrong.

John,
Thank you for your reply. This is a great site. In the evening I cruise through to see what others are doing and I always pick up something interesting. I have rebuilt and sold a number of cubs and some green ones over the years, never figured I could afford to hold on to one, and buy another to save, and now in my late sixties, I traded for a completely rebuilt '48 with a 22 mower. I will keep this one. I also have an early B that was my first major rebuild, and now, it needs a redo. My work tractor is green.
Nic

Roy, the Gremlins are alive and well in Witcherville. Or at least, I refuse to blame myself for such antics.