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Does anyone know whether the bracket and wheel (in the attached url) that replaced the skids on the belly mower are standard or was this rigged/welded? If I could modify it similarly, it would really help me to stop ripping up my lawn, but I have not seen it anywhere else. I am trying not to buy a whole new deck with front mounted caster wheels, etc., and would love to simply replace skids with side-mounted wheels. Of course, any other suggestions would be appreciated.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OFFICIAL-IH-Far ... 4ad29b9509
I'm sure it was an owner modification. I don't see why it wouldn't work but they might dig in while making tight turns as they slide side ways. That's just my thoughts.
Oh yeah, welcome to the greatest Cub website on the planet!!
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
No doubt about that. If they don't swivel they will leave ruts everywhere. I notice that is an "Official" mower.
If the skids are ripping up the yard do you have them adjusted correctly? The deck hangs from the tractor and the skids should only hit the ground when you're going over a hump (think high center) to keep the blades out of the dirt. Depending on how high or low you are trying to cut will make a difference on where (which holes) the skids bolt through.
Thanks for all the above thoughts and suggestions. Overnight it occurred to me that the reason most decks have casters is to enhance/allow mobility, and I know the wheels in the picture don't swivel, so thanks for confirming my concerns. (I am still considering the option.)
The original problem has been that while turning or backing up (1955 McCormick Cub Farmall) the skids have caused some horrific gauges in my lawn, but if I lift the deck sufficiently, I am not getting a decent height for the cut. Also, I sometimes get something wedged in the skid and essentially carve up a section (which is probably my fault due to inattention).
Although I have owned the tractor for about a dozen years, I admit that I have not spent sufficient time looking at the adjustment options, and the wife is insistent that I either solve this issue or we look for other options. (Woods has a replacement deck with caster wheels for a mere... 3k, so that's out of the question.)
Another thought I had was whether there is a way to simply weld two caster wheels to the front of the deck, or on the steel spines that run along the top, but not sure on the engineering/durability efficacy on that.
Sounds like you just need to adjust the skids up a bolt hole or two so you can keep the deck at the cutting height you prefer without gouging the ground.
Sounds like you have an adjustment problem and yes, an attitude (mower attitude) adjustment. Let me explain.
- You live in Poughkeepsie, NY which means that in all probability your lawn is a mixture of cool season grasses. Cool season grasses should be mowed at 2.5 to 3" height. There are multiple agronomic reasons for this, which do not need to be discussed here.
- Large rotary mowers like those used on a Cub need to be adjusted so that the blades are tilted/pitched forward (attitude). The blade/s, when at the front of the mower need to be 1/4 to 1/2" lower than when the blade is at the rear of the mower. This adjustment dramatically reduces "double cutting" that really robs power. With the Cub on a flat surface, preferably concrete, and the mower lowered to cutting height (3"), the mower blade would measure 3" from the concrete at the front of the mower and 3.25 to 3.5" when the blade is at the rear of the mower.
- The mower attitude is adjusted in two places, at the rear mounting and the lift.
- The skids are never used to control cutting height. Scrivet has covered the adjustment of the skids very well.
I have mowed a lot of lawn with both a Woods 42 and a Woods 59 and have never had a problem with the skids tearing up the lawn. Also, I do not use caster wheels.
Hope this helps.
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
Caster wheels just get in the front wheels when you need to back up!!---I have them on the new 59 that I put on the lo-boy 185 tractor but they sit differently for some reason and are not a bother so I never took them off@ thanks; sonny
Some of the Woods 59 manuals tell you to lift the deck before backing up. Obviously who ever wrote that never used a mower very much! Some of the manuals have a notation to set the front wheels out 6" on each side to clear the casters, and on loboys to assemble the bracket with the offset angle outboard so the left side clears the carb. I guess if the axle hasn't been adjusted in a while maybe raising the deck before backing isn't such a bad idea after all. No clue why they take different approaches to the same issue in different manuals.
I moved my woods 59 back toward the rear wheels and I never have an issue with the castors bumping into the front wheels while backing. Backing with the mower up sometimes allows the back of the deck to contact the rear tires. Also, I have seen one photo of someone's woods 59 with the castors mounted wide on the sides of the deck. Interesting setup. they did not appear to use skids at all.
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
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