cub not running

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cub not running

Postby farmallfarms » Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:33 pm

hello this is my first post so here it goes. i have a very early 1947 cub and i was moldboard ploing my garden then it just stopped and ive just restored it. it has weak spark so i put a set of points and a condencer in it. spark better. new rotor and cap good spark. checked compression and was good. then i cleaned the carb i think i may have a rotor out of time but i lined the marks up so i don't know wat to do. :lost: so if someone knows something i don't please help thanks.
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Re: cub not running

Postby Jim Becker » Thu Apr 03, 2014 11:49 pm

farmallfarms wrote:i think i may have a rotor out of time but i lined the marks up so i don't know wat to do.

Since the rotor has twice as many teeth as the pinion, there are 2 ways it can be set with the marks in line. One is right, the other wrong. There is a proper procedure for getting it right. If you simply installed it without getting the rotor pointed in the original direction, the short cut fix may be to remove the rotor and reinstall exactly 180 degrees from the current position. If that doesn't make it run, you need to go back and set the rotor properly "by the book". Doing so isn't difficult but I won't take the time to spell it out now as you may not need it.
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Re: cub not running

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Apr 04, 2014 9:00 am

Here is a brief how to on timing the rotor. viewtopic.php?f=140&t=83108

if your spark is weak coming right out of the coil on top of the magneto, and you have already replaced the points and condenser, most likely thecoil is getting weak. i have 3 cubs with the magnetos, and that seems to be the weak spot in the J4 magnetos. If that is the case, you will either need to replace the coil or it is not difficult to bypass the original coil and use an external one.
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Re: cub not running

Postby farmallfarms » Mon Apr 07, 2014 3:46 pm

turning the rotor fixed it but i put a new float and needle in the carb and now it keeps leaking gas and doesn't fill the bowl up fast enough for the tractor. so any suggestions?
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Re: cub not running

Postby Don McCombs » Mon Apr 07, 2014 3:49 pm

Did you adjust the new float?

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Re: cub not running

Postby farmallfarms » Mon Apr 07, 2014 6:42 pm

yes i adjusted it and it started leaking even worse :? . so i put the old needle and pin in because they flow better than the new one so im going to buy a rebuild kit and try that. thanks for the help
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Re: cub not running

Postby farmallfarms » Wed Apr 09, 2014 6:52 pm

ok we r having some problems with the carburetor now. so i have put an new needle and float in and the old needle had holes on it for a higher flow rate and the new one doesn't. i have the float adjusted as low as it can go and it still runs too lean and under a load , dies. wat shoould i do.
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Re: cub not running

Postby bythepond88 » Thu Apr 10, 2014 11:42 am

I would start by checking fuel flow with the fuel line disconnected from the carb. If that is good, check the screen inside where the fuel line connects to the carb for trash, because the blockage is somewhere in the carb. If you are not getting good flow from the fuel line, remove the sediment bowl and check fuel flow from the tank itself. If it's good from the tank, then the blockage is in the fuel shutoff; if not, then there's trash in the outlet from the tank.
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Re: cub not running

Postby farmallfarms » Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:00 pm

im just having really bad luck. i fixed the carb but i went to go plow my neighbors garden and the clutch mesed up. i turned it off because it started smoking and then i tried to start it agian and then put it and gear and it was like trying to put it in gear with no clutch at all. this is also a new clutch. please please please help :( :( :( :(
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Re: cub not running

Postby Smokeycub » Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:02 am

farmallfarms wrote: i went to go plow my neighbors garden and the clutch mesed up. i turned it off because it started smoking

How did the clutch pedal feel before it smoked? Sounds like the clutch was out of adjustment and if it's not junk already you may be able to adjust it. There is a precise way to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate and correctly adjust the clutch linkage, both are pretty critical to have correct, these parts are definitely not "bolt in" and go. The graphite throw out bearing needs to be WELL lubed too, if it's not already ruined. The procedures are outlined in Rudi's server above (if it's working).
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Re: cub not running

Postby farmallfarms » Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:53 am

i got it apart and i found that i needed a new throwout bearing and pressure plate. what happened was the throwout bearing was now greased and got ruined and also ruined the fingers on the clutch. so i ordered a pressure plate and a new spinning throwout bearing. o well but i was wondering how do u grease those because the grease fitting does not put grease were it needs to go.
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Re: cub not running

Postby Eugene » Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:01 am

farmallfarms wrote:i was wondering how do u grease those because the grease fitting does not put grease were it needs to go.
Cheap grease soaks into and through the graphite portion of the throwout bearing.

Some throw out bearings come prelubed and others not. You need to lub the throwout bearing and let set for a day or two before putting it into operation. Folks frequently lub the bearing with the grease zerk and rub grease on the face of the bearing. Then enclosed in a plastic bag for a couple of days.

As previously stated. Pressure plates for Cubs do not come preadjusted.

Word of caution. Some clutch kits available for Cubs are - well let's just say, junk. Buy quality, not the cheapest available.
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Re: cub not running

Postby farmallfarms » Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:57 am

ok i put it all back together and used t all works good thanks everybody who helped me. its is now for sale if anyone wants to buy it
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