Sun Apr 13, 2014 6:33 pm
My '63 Cub plowed snow well the 3-4 times we needed it over the winter. But it won't pull my single-bottom plow very long before laboring, then dying. I can't restart it after it dies. Took the battery off and charged it for 2 hours. It started again and plowed 20 minutes before dying again. Over winter I bought a new battery, had carb tuned, and points/plugs checked (all fairly new). It has a new coil. Does not seem to be overheating. I am plowing 8" deep in new soil. The battery registers low on the charger - but I had tried the starter for quite a while both times it died. Last fall it labored and died while mowing grass uphill the one time we used it after purchase.
Thanks for your help!
Sun Apr 13, 2014 6:50 pm
20 minute run time then dies, normally a faulty coil.
Run the tractor in warm weather until it dies. Then check for spark from the coil wire to 1/4" from ground.
Sun Apr 13, 2014 6:55 pm
Thanks Eugene. It has not died when not under a load. Pulling the plow seemed to make it die. Does that still sound like a coil problem?
Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:24 pm
RickB wrote:Thanks Eugene. It has not died when not under a load. Pulling the plow seemed to make it die. Does that still sound like a coil problem?
Yes, easy enough to check. Coil is my first guess. Assumption, coil is heating up, breaking down.
You stated that you had no problems plowing snow, cold weather. Problem shows up plowing soil, warmer weather.
Once tractor dies, immediately check for spark from the ignition coil to ground.
Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:43 pm
Makes sense. Hope that is the problem - cheap & easy fix. Will try tomorrow. Thanks!
Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:48 pm
another possibility is the condenser even though new, as well as vent being plugged in gas tnak. with no fuel pump, the gas will stop flowing when a vacuum builds.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:38 am
I would take John's advice on the condenser,could be be breaking down when hot causing weak spark.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:12 am
Update: I plowed until it died again this morning, then checked spark from the coil. It has good spark. I waited 45 minutes until it cooled down, then restarted it. It seems to be a heat problem - either the electrical system, or the cooling system. I am getting no boil-over from the radiator, and the coolant level is fine. I do pick up a slight antifreeze smell from the cap when it is hot, but no trace of fluid. I will try the condenser and poke around the gas cap vent. Rain and snow(!!!) today and in the forecast will keep me out of the field to test until the weekend.
Really appreciate all the suggestions!
Mon Apr 14, 2014 12:03 pm
Does it throw up black smoke before it quits.
When it gets hot will it idle or just no pulling power or not run at all.
Try adjusting your carb mixture. Maybe running to rich as it heats up.
If no smoke it may be running to lean.
Maybe crud in fuel.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 12:35 pm
Just thinking. Battery voltage for this tractor is? Alternator conversion? Ballast resistor installed in ignition system. Factor wiring system or conversion of some type? Thinking that if the wiring is not original, the problem may be other than in the coil, ballast resistor, distributor. Wiring in good condition - no shorts?
You can check for a stopped up gas tank cap by opening up the cap immediately after the tractor dies. Tractor will start up and run within a few seconds if that's the problem.
Coolant temperature is not the problem if the tractor is not boiling over. If you checked for spark when the engine died, assumed the engine still cranked over. If engine cranked over, not the problem.
I would put tractor in the shop. Put jumpers at coil on the wire from the switch and another jumper from the coil to the distributor. If you have a ballast resistor in line with the coil - another jumper there. Multimeter, volts setting. Run tractor until it stops. Immediately check for battery voltage on jumpers.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 6:06 pm
No black smoke before it dies. The power seems to decrease for 5-10 seconds, then it quits. Then it will turn over, but not start. It is an original 6v, and the wiring looks original. I cleaned the gas cap vent, but when I took off the cap before, it would not start then either. I bought a condenser today to switch out. Just a thought - because my draw bar has pulleys welded on for mowing deck, I set the plow up all the way to the left. Was it turning over too much sod without breaking it, and pulling too much weight? I managed to set the plow tongue between the pulleys - there was barely enough clearance after all. When weather breaks, I will try it. I don't have a voltmeter, Eugene. If it gets to that I will have to take it in.
Thanks again for the input!
Mon Apr 14, 2014 6:18 pm
Load the tractor up and take to Barnyard Bash. 30 May, Harrison, Ohio. You will get a lot of knowledgeable, expert, help.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:53 pm
Next time it quits on you, open the carberatur drain plug.
If nothing comes out you have crud in your tank/lines.
Sometimes with blockage in the lines in takes time for it to run out of fuel then
when it sets for a bit it has time to fill the bowl again and then it will start and run till it runs out of fuel again.
Before you run it:
If you have a sediment bowl see if there are things floating in there.
Turn on the fuel and open the carb drain and hold a clean container under it, if you get a continues flow it is not the fuel supply. If it runs a short time then stops you have blockage restricting the flow somewhere.
I am not saying your problem is not electrical, but I would need to eliminate the fuel supply as a source of the problem then move on to electrical.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:05 pm
I know the correct police will not like this but, next time it stalls pour some cold water on the coil, cool it down quick and see if it starts.
Wed Apr 16, 2014 6:51 am
2 great ideas from Dell and muleboss. I am going to replace the condenser today - pretty cheap experiment. I will try your suggestions next. Thanks!
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