Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:40 pm
I have a 63 farmall cub
2.5 years ago I decided to split it, get the engine done with everything new inside, and replace every gasket and seal on the tractor. I started reassembly a couple weeks ago cleaning and painting peice by peice. I filled it with coolant today, start and runs great. I shut it off parked it in the garage and come back later to find coolant dripping from carb. I removed the manifold and the intake ports are soaked with coolant. Headgasked? Cracks? I doubt after 2.5 years the machine shop is even going to want to hear about it.
ANY SUGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:24 pm
Do you know if the machine shop magnafluxed the block to check for cracks before machining? Did you spray the head gasket with Copperkote and coat the head bolts with a sealant on the threads? AND welcome to the Forum.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:07 pm
No I don't know if he magnafluxed it. I just pulled the head off and there is a copper looking something on both sides of the gasket but is looks like regular neversieze on the bolt threads.
looks like the exhaust is leaking between the cylinders on the head in between by where the valves are.
im going to go over there tomorrow and see if he did magnaflux it like you said, I guess this is what you get for not having time to finish it huh.
thanks again Bob. Ill let you know how I made out.
Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:35 pm
You might also want to find out if the head/block were shaved and what the head bolts were torqued to.
Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:53 am
Welcome to the forum from Arkansas, and good luck with the leak, hope it is something simple like Bob suggest. Always look for the simple things first.
Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:37 pm
Thank you Mr. McCarty for your help with this matter.
It looks like I have it squared away. After pulling the head I cleaned out the coolant from the cylinders, checked the block with a straight edge and was good, I vissibly saw no cracks. I took the head to the machine shop where it was pressure tested and shaved by 10 thousands to make it flat again. I cleaned the neversieze from the bolt holes, tapped them, and used the copper coat on both sides of the head gasket. I also used permatex flexible thread sealant on the new head bolts when I torqed down in sequence starting with 25lbs, 35lbs, 45lbs and again to 47lbs. I just wanted to make sure it went down flat and even. Finished re-assembling filled with coolant whela runs with no more leak. I just have to set all of little things like timing, high and low rpms, adjust govornor.
I do have a uestion about setting rpms, and using a timing light.
1 what is the best thing to use on a 6v pos ground to get rpms acurately?
2 I have a timing light for a 12v car, will that work on 6v pos ground and would I hook it up backwards ar the same way I would put it on a 12v neg ground car?
red on + or -?
Thanks in advance for the answers
and thank you for those who have helped me!!!!!!
Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:46 pm
Ohh. Machine shop was out of bussiness and no where to be found
Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:56 pm
just use a 12 volt battery to power the timing light and it will work fine on your cub
Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:56 pm
Use a 12 volt battery to power your timing light. External battery or jumper cables from a 12 volt vehicle or tractor.
Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:43 am
Don't forget to retorque after run in.
Thu Apr 24, 2014 12:15 pm
For measuring rpm's the [url]best[/url] way is to get one of the hand held ones from fleabay. However, I bought an inexpensive ($10 or $15 IIRC) Equus brand tach-dwell meter from Pep Boys or AutoZone or some such and it works well enough for me. Just remember to hook the positive clip to ground rather than the negative. It is also helpful for double checking that the points gap is correct without disassembling the distributor.
For the timing light, I again have an inexpensive Equus timing light, and as long as the crank pulley is in shadow, it is bright enough just hooked up to Eddie's 6v battery, so try that before lugging another battery out there.
Thu Apr 24, 2014 1:28 pm
The machine shop may have removed the manifold studs. They screw right into the water jackets. there are two things you can do. 1 is to drain the antiefreeze for the summer and run plain water. theis will rust the threads and stop the seeping. the 2nd thing you can do is to remove the manifold then remove the studs. put a sealer on the threads. if you are still getting coolent after you do this then there maybe a crack in a valve guide bore. The only other thing it could be a inferrior foreign made head gasket.
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