IH Carb Rebuild Procedure

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IH Carb Rebuild Procedure

Postby Don McCombs » Wed Apr 30, 2014 8:39 am

When I rebuild a carburetor, I don't typically buy a complete rebuild kit. Many of the parts in the kit won't need to be replaced. I normally only replace the felt dust seals, retainers and gaskets. If you do decide to purchase the full kit, buy only the genuine CaseIH rebuild kit, Part Number 354454R92, or one of the aftermarket kits sold by Steiner or Yesterday’s Tractor Company. If you get an aftermarket kit from Tractor Supply or TISCO, you will likely be disappointed by the content and quality. Make yourself a copy of pages 12-12 and 12-13 of TC-37F, Rev 3 to use as a guide to the part numbers and reassembly.

I start out by completely disassembling the carburetor and cleaning it. You must be very careful when pulling the two halves of the carburetor apart. The idle tube inside is very delicate and easily bent or broken. Pull them straight apart, without twisting or canting the pieces. When I take the carburetor apart, I look carefully at the felt dust seals where the throttle and choke shafts pass through the carburetor casting. If they are extremely dirty or deteriorated, I will remove them and their retainers. The retainers normally get damaged in this process. If the idle tube won't come out easily, leave it in. Then I put all the metal parts, except the float, in a product called Chem-Dip Carburetor and Parts Cleaner. It comes in a gallon, paint-type can with a metal basket in it. You should be able to find it at any good auto parts store.

Image

Put the parts in the basket and submerge them to soak according to the label directions. When I take them out, I rinse them with clean water and let them dry. Then, I clean up the castings and the other parts with toothbrush-style nylon, stainless steel and brass brushes. This includes the two shafts and butterfly plates. Make sure you remember which way the plates come off, so they go back on correctly. I run a thin, soft copper wire through all of the orifices to make sure they are clear. After everything is clean I reassemble everything using the new dust seals and retainers (if needed) and new gaskets. I normally replace all the screws with stainless steel screws, also. You should be able to find them at any good hardware store or fastener place. I use a thread sealant on the threads of the discharge nozzle and needle valve cage when reassembling to prevent fuel leakage at these points. I use a gasket sealant on the main metering jet gasket. Use just a very small amount at each location, so that you don't plug any orifices.

This is the thread sealant I use.

Image

And this is the gasket sealant I use.

Image

They are both gasoline resistant if you let them cure properly before introducing fuel.

Set the float according to the following diagram. Set the idle adjusting screw and the throttle stop screw in accordance with the Operator’s Manual. Put it all back together and try it out. You may have to make several attempts to get the float adjusted just right. You will also likely need to adjust the rod between the carburetor and the governor rockshaft.
Image

The part numbers and quantities that you may need are:

251235R1 - Carburetor Gasket (1)
251337R3 - Fuel Bowl Gasket (1)
25948D - Needle Valve Cage Gasket (1)
45148D - Dust Seal Retainer (3)
45149DA - Dust Seal (3)
47401D - Discharge Nozzle & Main Metering Jet Gaskets (2)

Other parts may need to be replaced if they are worn, damaged or missing. This includes the float, main metering jet, idle tube, inlet screen, etc.

Check the fuel inlet threads and the mounting flange threads carefully. If they are damaged, they can be repaired using a helicoil kit of the appropriate size. Several board members are set up to provide this service if you need it.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
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1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
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Re: IH Carb Rebuild Procedure

Postby tmays » Wed Apr 30, 2014 9:14 am

Excellent! Thanks for posting!
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Re: IH Carb Rebuild Procedure

Postby Stanton » Wed Apr 30, 2014 12:47 pm

Thanks for posting this, Don. Straightforward, clear and concise. Good job and good reference for years to come!

Permit me to add that someone showed up at the NE OK Cubfest having purchased a complete carb kit from McDonald Carb & Ignition (http://www.mcdonaldcarb.com/product_p/mr5097.htm) and it appeared to be similar quality and quantity (parts) as the IH Case kit. Current price is $34.99.
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Re: IH Carb Rebuild Procedure

Postby hoosier » Wed Apr 30, 2014 2:42 pm

Great article. Clean is the way to go. I always set the float level using a clear tube connected to the bowl drain. When the fuel level is 9/16 inch below the top of the bowl you are uptown. Just another way but you can see where the fuel level is in the bowl.
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Re: IH Carb Rebuild Procedure

Postby dmacarthur » Wed Apr 30, 2014 3:51 pm

One more thing, which has been important on both of my Cubs, is to flatten the top of the carb. There are good articles on this on this forum and others here have done it way more than I have but both of my Cub carbs leaked after rebuilding until I followed this simple process and brought the two halves of the carbs close enough to be sealed by the new gasket.....
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Re: IH Carb Rebuild Procedure

Postby Don McCombs » Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:17 pm

I wrote this article several years ago. I will be updating and adding to the version of this article in the How To Forum as time goes on. The reference to McDonald Carb is one of the planned additions, as is a better description of how to set the float height.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
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1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: IH Carb Rebuild Procedure

Postby dmacarthur » Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:21 pm

Thanks for your work Don- all of the rest of us benefit rom it! Dan
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