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8 posts • Page 1 of 1
I just started my first restoration project on my 50 demo cub.
As I disassemble. I want to clean the parts to bare metal, then primer and store the parts in plastic bins. I plan to have the tractor professionally painted white when it is done.
I am using a combination of sandpaper, wire brush, chemical paint remover and steel wool to strip the parts to pretty close to bare metal. Then I clean thoroughly with mineral spirits, dry and prime.
I primed the first dozen parts with light gray Rustoleum rusty metal primer and the parts looked fine.
Then the questions started. I stopped in at a local dealer that sells paint to professional auto body shops. When I came out after talking to that guy I felt like I was just asked to fly the space shuttle.
He was talking about water based, lacquer based, self etching, 2 part epoxy, clean metal, rusty metal, bleed through, compatibility and half a dozen prep products ETC. So I was completely confused. I want to simply clean the paint off, prep with mineral spirits and prime them with the best product I can get in an aerosol can. But at the same time, not if that means having problems with the future paint job.
Since these parts are being cleaned close to bare metal, should I prime with a self etching primer for bonding? or is rusty metal (or clean metal) primer in a rattle can good enough?
Then, is Rustoleum Brand OK or should I hunt down something better like Tallmans Industrial, Eastwood. And even Rustoleum has a fistful of similar but different aerosol primers including a self etching primer. At the auto parts store, there are several brands of self etching primers from $6 per can up to $50 per can.
If anyone wants to weigh in on this I will appreciate the help
You say you are going to have it professionally painted. Have you picked out a shop/painter yet? If so, ask him the best way to prep based on the topcoat system he will be applying. If not, find one and ask him the best way to prep based on the topcoat system he will be applying.
Don't waste your time with all the prep work until you have a course of action with a painter. Incompatibility with topcoat system is a definite possibility.
It may be just as easy for you to do all the stripping and then give the painter the parts so he can apply the compatible primer system with the topcoat system.
It will ultimately come down to your paint budget which will help answer all the "He was talking about water based, lacquer based, self etching, 2 part epoxy, clean metal, rusty metal, bleed through, compatibility and half a dozen prep products ETC. So I was completely confused..." questions.
Worksmart not hard!!
Hi and welcome the the forum!
Since you're going to have a professional do your painting, you should have a chat with him (or her). Much will depend on the type of paint he will be using, If he will be using automotive quality paint, he will likely want to spray it over automotive quality primer. If using basic implement type paint, he probably won't be as fussy. You may get 10 different opinions here but in the end, you should follow the advice of your painter.
Chuck was a little quicker than me but I think we agree.
Yes we do, Gary.
Your comment "You may get 10 different opinions here but in the end, you should follow the advice of your painter" is spot on.
Worksmart not hard!!
Welcome to the forum!
I hope you have taken pictures of any white demo paint prior to disassembly and stripping. This will help document / “prove” it was indeed a demo.
Paint is like oil or tranny fluid, there will be as many opinions as members! I like the KISS method; initially I used IH primer and paint. I found out Rustoleum primer works well with IH paint, is cheaper and easier to pick up (have used it on many Cub Cadets). Prep work, including proper cleaning prior to painting and compatibility are key. If you are getting it professionally painted I would consult the painter or he may not want to do it if the primer is not his preference.
OOPs, many faster at the fingers than me this morning....
i wouldnt use rustoleoum if your going to use a proffesional paint system. i would get a spray can of Sem self etching primer to put on your parts until they are ready for the painter. also i would get some pre paint cleaner thats fast drying so it won't leave any residue, you can prime right over that. your painter can then scuff that off and he can put his system over it.
Thanks for the advice. I need to determine who and how I will get this painted and start there.
Glad I asked before I was further into this.
I have documented the white on all the parts I have cleaned off.
I had a "retired" professional paint the hood and sheet metal parts for my last Cub. He didn't care what paint I used, as long as I provided it. I went with the Case/IH Iron Guard primer and paint, as I had experienced very good results with that in the past. The painter had never used it, but when I picked up the parts he told me that it was some of the best paint he had ever worked with outside of normal automotive paint. He was very impressed with it, especially how well the primer hid and sanded. I know it's not an automotive finish, but it sure turned out nice. Like the others have said, the first thing I did was talk to the painter. In my case, he didn't care, but I would suggest you contact one and see what they say.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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