Sat Jun 07, 2014 10:19 am
Desperately Wanted: Someone to fix my 1948 Cub.
I could pay for the parts, I hope.
Would like to pay for the labor with implements.
1. Cub-144 cultivator (looks like picture on page 27 section B in farm implements guide)*
2. Spring tooth harrow (looks like picture on page 31 section B in farm implements guide)*
3. Part of a Cub-38 disk (looks like picture on page 58D in farm implements guide)*
4. 5 foot Cub-22 mower (looks like picture on page 68 only shorter in farm implements guide)*
5. Cub-189 two way plow (looks like picture on page 187 in farm implements guide)*
6. A single plow.
7. Cub-54 leveling and grader blade (looks like picture on page 216 and 217 in farm implements guide)*
8. And a new Woods L59.
* Disclaimer: They might not be these exact implements. I could be way off since I am not an expert. I just went by the pictures.
I would like to keep the Woods L59 (I mow 6 acres), the spring tooth harrow (I use it to thatch the lawn in the spring), and the blade (plow snow with it).
Pretty set on the L59, the other 2 are negotiable.
Paid $1500 for the tractor and implements, around $500 for gas, food, trailer rental, and time to get it from Oregon.
$2000 for engine parts and restoration.
$1800 for a gentleman (friend of a friend) to fix leak in the rear main.
$500+ for Case IH to fix broke gear in left final drive housing. (see problems 4 & 5)
$1200 on Woods L59 mower
Wife does not want to put anymore money into it, and I'm starting to agree.
Here is a list of known problems.
1. Leaks 1 quart of oil for every 6-8 hours of mowing
2. Touch control does not lift. I overhauled the pump myself, with the help of the great people, on this web site.
3 Exhaust pipe fell off manifold.
4. Left brake does not work.
5. Left final drive housing has 2 stripped bolt holes, the 3rd has part of the bolt in it.
6. Steering or alignment: turning left, the right tire cuts the grass
And that is just what I know about. There could be way more wrong.
So it is ether this or I will be forced to sell everything.
I do not have the money, time, tools, nor the knowledge (since my dad passed) to fix this Cub.
Thanks because I really dontknowwhatimdoing
Sat Jun 07, 2014 10:34 am
Sat Jun 07, 2014 12:26 pm
Could you give us some detailed information on what engine work was done (and by whom), what the Case dealer did on the rear final, and what the "gentleman" did to fix the rear main (do you mean the rear main seal on the engine, or something else?). Those repairs should have fixed most of the problems you are now listing.
Sat Jun 07, 2014 5:30 pm
Ouch, if I was closer I'd bring some beers on a couple of Saturdays and help you out. Good luck!
Sat Jun 07, 2014 10:13 pm
Looks like time for a mini-fest!! Wish you lived here in NC...I'm ready for one. Don't lose heart...the things you mention really are doable. Remember, pretty much all the manuals, including ones for final and Touch Control rebuild, are available above. But I know, it sure is better to have others there to help and advise.
Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:06 am
I will answer your questions as well as I can. The wife through out the receipts I saved.
Bismarck small engine repair. Total overhaul in 2003. Told the place the rear main was leather and rope. Was replaced with a rubber one. Didn't notice the leak, till 4 months after, when Dad and I finished restore, and hooked up the mower for the first time.
Thought it was the oil pan gasket. Changed it twice. Still leaked. Didn't want to split it again, right after working so hard to get it together.
Engine runs great, just leaks oil.
2005 a friend and neighbor suggested I take my cub to a friend of his who fixed tractors. So I did. He said he could fix the leak. I said great, if he needed suggestions for the seal to check out the ATIS cub forum web site. Said he knew what he was doing, didn't need the web site. He told me the drive shaft was bent, and this was causing the leak. So he replaced the shaft and all the seals. After I paid him and was driving it home. It started to leak, didn't want to cause problems with my friend, so I just ate the $1800. Yeah I know STUPID.
2009 had slushy snow. Cleaned off the drive. Came home and found the county maintainer left a nice ridge across the apron. Later that afternoon, I went out with the Cub to clean it off again. It must have froze. Put the blade up against the ridge. Let out the clutch and clunk nothing. Would not go in to gear, any gear. The Case IH guy fixed this issue. Again sorry for not knowing exactly what he fixed, it was on the receipt witch I no longer have. The brake on the left side worked before I took it in to Case. Never use the brakes much moving snow so I didn't noticed it until summer when I was mowing. To late to take it back and complain. And same with the loose bolts on the fender and final drive. I should have checked them. But I assumed they would have tightened them sufficiently. Now 5 years later they are gone. And I should have noticed.
So now I do not trust anyone around here including Case IH.
Hope that answers you questions.
Sun Jun 08, 2014 11:03 am
When I read your first post I was really feeling bad for you. When I read your last post I just want to give you a slap on the face and bring you back to reality. Some of this stuff happened a DECADE ago. The most recent was FIVE years ago. Cubs are going to break on their own and require maintenance. While I could agree that a couple problems might be due to lack of knowledge on your chosen mechanics part it's well past time to even waste time commenting on them. Let's get your Cub back up to snuff. Nothing in the list is hopeless, it will just take time. First thing is give yourself a little credit, you have to know something mechanical because you understand there are problems.
There's six things on your list. Let's scratch one off right now #6 is most likely normal. Turning very short or turning while traveling fast will scuff up the grass on the outside wheel.
#3 Should be relatively easy as well. Post a picture of the exhaust pipe and manifold in the Cub forum so we can get a look at it and offer advice.
I know you said in your first post I do not have the money, time, tools, nor the knowledge (since my dad passed) to fix this Cub.
I DO NOT
accept that from you. You wouldn't be asking for the help if you had given up.
Money, and time, may be short but you aren't going to need the sizeable amounts you have spent in the past to get this Cub up to snuff.
Time, spend what you got even if it's only thirty minutes a week.
Tools, with just a couple screwdrivers, a few wrenches, and a socket set you can pretty well dismantle a Cub. Yeah you can get into a lot of specialized stuff but remember in 1947 most farmers didn't have a lot of tools so the Cub was designed with few tools in mind.
Knowledge, well I think the forum has got that one covered for you. I know it's a different world without your father, mine passed over thirty years ago. I'm sure you picked up some knowledge from yours, we just need to use that and add to it with the help of everybody here on the forum. Asking plenty of questions and making sure you understand the answers after breaking the job into manageable parts is the key. Remember we've already got one off the punch list let's get those pictures of the manifold and exhaust pipe posted next. Then we'll move on to the final and brake issue.
Let the driving force be how proud you'll be to get this Cub running "on your own" (we won't tell
) and how proud your Dad would be of you for doing it!
Sun Jun 08, 2014 11:33 am
dnwid: Is there any chance you could haul your tractor to a Cubfest? The closest would be Central Indiana (Tipton, IN), or mine in Longmont, CO? Both would involve a long weekend with driving, but you could get those issues fixed if you don't want to try and do them yourself in ND.
Sun Jun 08, 2014 11:41 am
In September My wife and I plan to drive 18 hours to Bob McCarty's CubFest in Longmont Colorado. As noted by BigHoss, you are 10 hours away. I suggest you make plans now to take a little vacation and come visit us. I have the helicoil kit to fix the broken bolt and stripped holes in the final. A brake job is no big deal, that can be done there (fixing the finals would be easier with them off anyway). Much of your other problems could be addressed there also. Keep in mind, you will still need to buy some parts, but you will have free labor.
Here are some of the benefits of going to the CubFest.
1. Free help as noted, however you will have to do a lot of the labor (with our help) as you learn from the others.
2. Tools will be available for your use.
3. You will meet some of the guys who consistently post on this site.
4. You get to keep your implements.
5. You will have a great time. Bring your wife along as we will have ours along also.
I'm sure there are other valid reasons to attend, but I just touched base on a few.
By the way, since this has now turned into an "informational/help post" more than it is a "trade stuff for help post" I am moving this to the main forum so more members may see it and offer help as needed.
Sun Jun 08, 2014 5:23 pm
If there is any way to make the fest at Bob's in Longmont Co. (500 miles) You wont be sorry. The money you would be paying a dealer to fix things would pay to drive to bobs cub fest. Good luck which ever way you go.
Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:12 am
I agree, all you need are a few basic things:
1. A little knowledge: Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
2. A set of 3/8" drive socket wrenches, 6-point shallow and deep well preferably, with some extensions.
3. A set of combination end wrenches, 3/8" to 1" by 1/16".
4. A set of screwdrivers.
5. A lick of common sense.
6. A digital camera.
Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:27 am
I wish I was closer. I love "mini-fests" like these to work on tractors. Some of my "funnest" moments have come at mini-fests. It is great to have helpers and learn while doing...
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