Clutck Kits and Rear Main Seal

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vwfish
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Clutck Kits and Rear Main Seal

Postby vwfish » Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:48 pm

Hello everyone,

So I fired up the Cub today and when I depressed the clutch it made a heck of a noise.
I shut her down and opened up the clutch cover to discover the throw out bearing was chopped up pretty good, it didn't even spin when the clutch was depressed (I don't think the PO adjusted the plate fingers correctly).

Sooooooo....I'll be splitting the tractor in the next couple weeks and had a few questions for the more experienced folks out there.
First, I figured I might as well replace the whole shooting match, but have read some threads regarding the reproduction pressure plates being pretty poor.
Has anyone found a source for quality clutch kits?
Second, I might as well replace the main rear seal. Where can I find the part number, or does anyone happen to know that off the top of their heads?
Lastly, as long as the tractor is split, is there anything else I should check and/or replace?

Thanks for the help,

Fish

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Re: Clutck Kits and Rear Main Seal

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Sat Jun 07, 2014 8:04 pm

Current rear seal doesn't fit the seal holder correctly. Contact Tim. (TST) for a machined fit seal.
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Re: Clutck Kits and Rear Main Seal

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:04 pm

The throwout bearing is not supposed to spin. It is a carbon block and the pressure plate fingers slide on the face, so adjustment of the fingers is critical. If you buy an aftermarket throwout bearing rather than an IH, I suggest you soak it in oil a day or two before installing, since the graphite is lubricated by oil soaked into the graphite, but most aftermarket ones are shipped dry. Once a year you need to pump grease into the bottom grease fitting till fresh grease comes out the weep hole on the top. Use cheap grease, since the graphite is lubricated by the oil separating from the wax base and soaking into the graphite from the rear.

As to replacing the clutch, wait till you get it apart and inspect it before ordering, they seldom fail. or wear out.
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Re: Clutck Kits and Rear Main Seal

Postby Jeff Silvey » Sun Jun 08, 2014 5:51 am

John & Scotty D's dad said it very well.
In my line of work
" EVERYBODY GOES HOME THE NEXT MORNING"

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Re: Clutck Kits and Rear Main Seal

Postby vwfish » Sun Jun 08, 2014 7:20 am

Ok, thanks guys!

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Re: Clutck Kits and Rear Main Seal

Postby Matt Kirsch » Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:28 am

The Hy-Capacity kit was <$200, and seems okay to me.

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Re: Clutck Kits and Rear Main Seal

Postby Peter Person » Mon Jun 09, 2014 4:53 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:The throwout bearing is not supposed to spin. It is a carbon block and the pressure plate fingers slide on the face, so adjustment of the fingers is critical. If you buy an aftermarket throwout bearing rather than an IH, I suggest you soak it in oil a day or two before installing, since the graphite is lubricated by oil soaked into the graphite, but most aftermarket ones are shipped dry. Once a year you need to pump grease into the bottom grease fitting till fresh grease comes out the weep hole on the top. Use cheap grease, since the graphite is lubricated by the oil separating from the wax base and soaking into the graphite from the rear.

As to replacing the clutch, wait till you get it apart and inspect it before ordering, they seldom fail. or wear out.


...except that at CubFest Northeast 2011, Winfield Dave and I cut apart a brand new aftermarket TOB that had not been greased properly and found a layer of what appeared to be wax paper separating the graphite from the cast iron housing. Would not have mattered how much grease was pumped into the cavity - none of it was going to get to the graphite.

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