Here it is......

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Posco
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Tractors Owned: 1950 Cub...so far
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Re: Here it is......

Postby Posco » Fri Jun 13, 2014 4:23 pm

Scrivet wrote:Sediment bowl should do you fine for filtering, I personally don't care for in line filters. The exception being the sintered one that fits in the end of the gas line at the carb. There's a how to in the how to section. I'm not sure what you have when you say you have the shutoff but not the filter. The sediment bowl is a glass bowl with no filter medium other than the screen mentioned. The gas flows down from the tank through the shut off valve and into the post in the middle of the sediment bowl. From there it should be divereted sideways out into the bowl. Heavy dirt and rust particles settle to the bottom and as the bowl fills gas is forced up through the screen to catch any large floaters and out the gas line to the carb. Heavy particles and water settle to the bottom which you can see through the glass, if it's clean, and you know when to take it off and clean/dump it.



I thought I was doing my Cub a favor by putting in an additional filter. Maybe I was but even with the gravity flow (not fuel pump filter) filter, I still suffer fuel starvation with it. I didn't realize what a big and heated debate fuel filters could generate until I visited another tractor forum and saw one raging over the topic.

I'll be taking it off.

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Buzzard Wing
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Re: Here it is......

Postby Buzzard Wing » Fri Jun 13, 2014 6:36 pm

I have a lot of hours on a Cub or two and the factory setup is fine.

A mower takes a lot of power, especially to start. Try it with the tractor not in gear. There are a lot of things that must be 'right', mostly there are a lot of bearings in the mower 'drive line' and any one of them will cause a problem. PTO, idlers, cutter shafts (pulleys) etc should all spin free. With the deck at mowing height you should be able easily move the belt. Too much tension on the belt is bad (pulls down on the PTO shaft) and I think that mower has a tensioner (extra idler on the deck) where normally a Cub mower does not. For example, a Woods 59 for a Cub the tension is set by lowering the deck, it does NOT need to be real 'tight' to work correctly. In fact, too tight is bad. The adjustment is the idler pulleys on the rear bracket.

A picture of the rear of the tractor would tell us a lot about how it's rigged.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

Brutalfly
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Re: Here it is......

Postby Brutalfly » Fri Jun 13, 2014 10:28 pm

Buzzard Wing wrote:I have a lot of hours on a Cub or two and the factory setup is fine.

A mower takes a lot of power, especially to start. Try it with the tractor not in gear. There are a lot of things that must be 'right', mostly there are a lot of bearings in the mower 'drive line' and any one of them will cause a problem. PTO, idlers, cutter shafts (pulleys) etc should all spin free. With the deck at mowing height you should be able easily move the belt. Too much tension on the belt is bad (pulls down on the PTO shaft) and I think that mower has a tensioner (extra idler on the deck) where normally a Cub mower does not. For example, a Woods 59 for a Cub the tension is set by lowering the deck, it does NOT need to be real 'tight' to work correctly. In fact, too tight is bad. The adjustment is the idler pulleys on the rear bracket.

A picture of the rear of the tractor would tell us a lot about how it's rigged.


I am going to try that tomorrow hopefully.
They seems to spin fine.
It is when I let off the clutch and start to move is when it dies.
I am gong to go through and spin all of them by hand and then I am going to start it and turn it on.

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clodhopper
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Tractors Owned: 1950 Cub Demo
1978 Cub Cadet 1650
cub 193 plow
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cadet 50a deck
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Re: Here it is......

Postby clodhopper » Sat Jun 14, 2014 9:17 am

That deck looks likeit was fabricated based on the cadet 50A

Eugene
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Re: Here it is......

Postby Eugene » Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:22 pm

As part of your initial tractor service:
1) Flush the engine block and lower radiator housing.
2) Conduct compression tests. Actually, conduct a complete engine tune up.

#1. May take care of the steam escaping the radiator.
#2. Low compression may be part of your mower problem.
I have an excuse. CRS.

SONNY
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Re: Here it is......

Postby SONNY » Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:11 pm

How much blow-by does engine have??---as Eugene says if compression is too low it will never pull a mower!---been there have one of them right now!---also what is the exact oil pressure when hot? thanks; sonny

Tim66
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Tractors Owned: New Holland Boomer 30
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1966 IH Cub
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Location: Lorain County, Oh

Re: Here it is......

Postby Tim66 » Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:21 am

Rural King for the battery. $55 The Rural King brand is made by Exide. I believe it's a 26R. Fits perfect.


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