42F Mower Shaft Disassembly

[Barnyard]

I am attempting to separate a drive shaft for a 42F mower. It is rusted together quit well so I need to proceed with caution. Does the ring on the female end need to be removed before it comes apart?

42fshaft2.JPG (153.65 KiB) Viewed 408 times

[Denny Clayton]

Bill, here is a parts breakdown of what you are working on. You will need to remove the drive shaft from the splined shaft first (good luck!). It appears the cap is screwed on to hold a splined felt seal. Needs a good long soak in penetrant or kerosene.

[Barnyard]

Needs a good long soak in penetrant or kerosene.

Thanks Denny, it may be Christmas before the penetrant can get through on this one. Okay, so it isn't that bad, but I will just take my time with it.

[Boss Hog]

sandblast the part of the shaft that you can see, then you can tap the shaft in some . this will get it loose enough for the PB Blaster, liquid wrench or what ever to get in to the splines. and yes the cap need to come off first

[Eugene]

Thinking. Remove the yokes, then electrolysis tank for a few days. Or the other way around.

Long metal rod and big hammer, drive the splined shaft out.

[RUSSALL]

I think a needle scaler might help to loosen things up. Start on the threaded cap, use enough air pressure to just vibrate the needles and slowly work it loose. Then work on the splined shaft with full pressure add your favorite penetrant let soak.
I was shocked the first time I used a scaler on frozen parts . I thought the scaler would remove the "over burden" then allow the penetrant to work . I was surprised that the vibrations did wonders before the penetrant was applied. Good luck.


Russ

[Barnyard]

Well, the way it looks so far, I think I will try to get the whole thing off and ship it to the owner and let them get it apart, that way I won't be responsible for any damage. I am just doing this as a favor for the owner. The owner only wanted me to try to separate the shaft and just ship one end since none of it wants to come off the mower. The rest of the mower will head south at a later date.

[Dale Finch]

I confess that I am the extremely grateful owner of that extremely rusty machine! Barnyard is trying to do me a favor, but I fear it may be a much bigger job than I had hoped. I already have a 42f here in NC and bought this one JUST for the shaft. I am hoping to get the mower Expressed from Barnyard's, if anyone can help. I guess there will be little chance to get the shaft separated...either in half OR from the mower. I have a sandblaster here...just need to get it a ride!

Thanks Barnyard for all your help.

[Eugene]

It may be cheaper and much easier to purchase another PTO shaft. You will probably have use, mount, the terminal ends.

There are a number of PTO shaft and parts suppliers. Worth researching.

[tmays]

It may be cheaper and much easier to purchase another PTO shaft.

I do apologize, but

[Eugene]

It may be cheaper and much easier to purchase another PTO shaft.

I do apologize, but

But what?

http://www.agrisupply.com/pto-shafts-ac ... c/3500000/

[Dale Finch]

I know there are drive-line shops somewhere around, but I can tell you that Agri-supply has no 10-spline drive shafts...checked a loooooong time ago. Certainly would not have bought an entire 2nd mower just to get the shaft if it were that easy to get one locally!!

[Eugene]

You have both terminal ends on the old PTO shaft. All you need to do is find a good PTO shaft with the same size universal joints and a length that will work for the application.

Or you could just purchase a PTO shaft in the desired length and purchase the 6 to 10 spline adapters.

[Dale Finch]

OH!! I think I see what you are saying...I can separate the #1 (42F here in NC) rear half at the u-joint, and the #2 (42F in OH) front half (that's frozen) at the forward u-joint, keeping the 10-spline PTO fitting, then put anything I want "inside" the 2 u-joints. Is that right?

[Eugene]

Keep #4 and #17 in the above parts list. Replace everything else. Be sure the u-joint and working length measure up.

I have a PTO shaft in my junk parts that would probably work. But it would take two new u-joints and need to be cut to length. You can get a brand new PTO with safety shields for a bit more than the cost of 2 u-joints at the auto parts store.