Left Rear Wheel Stuck

Wed Jun 11, 2014 6:49 pm

My 1964 Cub Lo Boy has not moved since 1978. Now it's going to be restored, so we aired up the tires and started to push it to the trailer. Right rear wheel turns freely, but the left is stuck. Jacked it up and rocked the wheel back and forth; it only has an inch or two of movement.
Any suggestions where to begin would be appreciated!

Re: Left Rear Wheel Stuck

Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:21 pm

Can you turn the right rear tire through a full revolution, forward and back?

First thought. Left brake locked or frozen/rusted.

Unlock the brake pedals. Jack up left side of tractor. Unpin the left brake clevis. See if the left brake pedal depresses then returns.

Next see if there is any forward or back movement in the rod attached to the brake band.

Re: Left Rear Wheel Stuck

Thu Jun 12, 2014 4:17 pm

Thanks for the response. Right rear turns easily full revolution forward and back.
Pulled left side brake clevis and rod is stuck. No back and forth at all.

Re: Left Rear Wheel Stuck

Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:40 pm

I do not know what year they changed, but if it has the clevis style brake band the pivots are probably stuck/rusted in place. If it is the straight pull type band, look for something such as hickory nuts wedged in the housing binding the band.

Re: Left Rear Wheel Stuck

Mon Jun 16, 2014 12:18 pm

Looks like the brake is fully stuck.
I don't have help or an engine stand, and all I want to do now is free the brake up so I can move the tractor.
Can the brake be accessed without a full removal of the final drive? I'm wondering if I could support the drive and just slide it over enough to remove the brake pieces.

Re: Left Rear Wheel Stuck

Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:01 pm

Edit: Before you try the instructions below, get a bolt or punch that will go down inside the clevis and use a hammer to try forcing the rod backwards toward the housing. Be careful you do not damage any threads, if rust is the problem that may be enough to free it up. A couple squirts of penetrating oil in the opening on the clevis may help, but if you get it on the brake band you may have to remove it and clean off to have any brakes on that side once you get home.

Unfortunately you will need to remove the final drive to do anything with it. Once it comes out about half an inch and clears the dowels nothing holds up the end. Jack up the left side so the wheel barely clears the ground, then WEDGE THE FRONT AXLE. Unbolt the disk form the hub and roll it away, caution, if it has a weight or fluid it will be very heavy (125 to 400 pounds depending on how set up). Then remove the pin in the brake rod. Remove the bolts that go through the fender along with the ones that only go through the final, bolts are on top and bottom. Once that is done, it will simply slide out though may require a little persuasion if it has not been off in a long time. It has a shaft approximately 12 inches long that extends through the oil seal into the differential gear, so you need to come straight out. It weighs about 75 to 80 pounds, and can be done by hand, but a second person or a rope block tied over head helps. I have done it by myself a few times, but now have a bad back as a testament to doing that kind of thing to much. I assume it is the pivot type brake, so once it is off a little penetrating oil and gentle persuasion should free it up. Putting it back together be careful to go in straight so you do not damage the oil seal. Here is a picture of the parts inside the housing. One note, the brake drums are not shown, but while it is rare, there is the possibility it may be broken and the parts wedging it. If so, just cleaning out the loose parts should free it.

Once you get the problem solved and back together, remove the front axle wedges to prevent extra strain on axle and bolster before lowering the wheel.