Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:51 pm
Well after 2+ years on a complete rebuild of my 1972 Cub, I finally got to the point of putting in a new wiring harness and was going to make my firsh attempt to crank her up. I followed the wiring schematic in the Manual and the instructions sent with the new Brillman's harness. I pulled the main cable from the coil to the distributor to turn her over and make sure my oil pump was primed and pumping, all good, great oil flow.
When I went back to the coil to plug in the main cable it was burning hot. It's a brand new coil.
Any ideas, suggestions. My next step is to retrace my wiring connections, but at this point I am a bit baffeled, I'm pretty sure it was all hooked up correctly.
Thanks in advance,
Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:41 pm
Short within or at distributor. Ignition points closed, either frozen/welded shut or not gaped. Terminal on side of distributor not insulated. Condenser wire on wrong side of the insulator.
Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:19 am
Thank you, Sir.
Back on it, will report results.....
Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:49 am
Well I took the points and cables off of the Distributor looking for a possible short and everything seems to be in order, good insulators, etc.
Question: what pole from the condensor connects to the post on the exterior of the distributor, is it the - or +? I have a 1972 neg. ground 12 Volt system.
I currently have the - going from the coil to the Distributor, but as I'm putting it back together if doesn't seem right. It feels like I'm grounding the coil out that way.
What do you think?
Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:12 am
The Riot wrote:I currently have the - going from the coil to the Distributor,
That is correct.
Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:29 am
The condenser wire goes under the points spring and both go on top of the insulator that goes through the distributor housing. There is an insulator on the outside of the distributor under the nut and washer.
Disconnect the small wire leading from the coil to distributor. Multimeter set on ohms or beeper. One multimeter lead on the terminal on side of distributor, other lead on ground. Rotate engine. Multimeter will show continuity when points are closed and no continuity when points open. I you have continuity at all times, short is inside or at the distributor.
Condenser polarity, immaterial. Automotive condensers typically have a tab formed on the exterior case with a hole. Hole is for mounting to metal, plate inside the distributor or external to distributor.
Mislocation of the condenser wire is a fairly common no start fault after changing points and condenser.
Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:55 am
Well I guess when I took everything apart and reassembled I must have changed something for the better. I did the continuity check and have a beep with points are closed and none when open.
It's looking good ! If anything changes when I hook up battery I'll post.
thank you, thank you, most helpful
Sun Jul 13, 2014 12:31 pm
Well when I hooked up the battery the coil started heating up again, but I still had time to check and was getting a good spark, I only checked number 2 for spark, guessing the other 3 are good.
I removed the brand new coil and put the old faithful one back on and it doesn't seem to be getting hot and I still have a good spark.
What do you think, could the New coil be bad?
Sun Jul 13, 2014 12:38 pm
Brand new coil. Still thinking on this one.
There should be only one wire connected to the terminal on top of the coil going to the terminal on the side of the distributor.
Ignition switch off, check for voltage at, to the coil. Should be no voltage. If you have voltage, something mis-wired.
There is a possibility that your new coil is bad.
Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:56 pm
Success, I left the old coil on and put everything back together, and for the first time in about 10 years she roared to life after a complete engine rebuild, boarded out, new piston, rings, valves, etc. She never even sputtered, just came to life at the first touch of the button. It's a great feeling.
Still have some adjusting to do on the governor, etc. but it's incredible.
As soon as I figure out how to do it I will post some pics of the rebuild stages.
One more question. Would it be normal to see crankcase oil coming out of the hole where the Hydraulic pump mounts? I haven't put the Hyd pump and Touch control back in yet?
Thanks again, couldn't have done it without your help.
Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:03 pm
If you haven't got the hydraulic pump mounted or a cover on hole, then yes, you should expect some oil to get slung out of the opening.
Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:14 pm
Great feeling Mr Riot when she fires up like that after a lot of toil & sweat + the odd bleep bleep
. Post pics if possible. Enjoy one of these
you deserve it
Sun Jul 13, 2014 3:53 pm
How'd you know about the Bleep Bleeps.......
And yes indeed I will celebrate with a few cold ones.
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